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Bushman's Kloof (From Good, Better, Best) (30-May-08)

Bushman’s Kloof is a scant three hours away from Cape Town but a lifetime towards connecting with empirical man. Like the Cradle of Mankind near the Magaliesberg, Bushman’s Kloof, enveloped by the Cederberg Mountains, is the place to search for new beginnings. There are over 130 Rock Art sites on the seven hectare private reserve and the appointment of a full time archaeologist, Mr Siyakha Mguni to continue the already valuable work in preserving, displaying and explaining San and KhoiSan rock art, confirms the owners’ commitment.

The Tollman Family purchased Bushman’s Kloof from another passionate family.
The McAdams were the first to commit time and money to the project and under their watch the property was accepted as part of the Relais & Chateaux marketing family.

Bushman’s Kloof is the kind of place that is so special - so rare in its harsh natural beauty, and in the rock art that is under its owner’s stewardship, that the usual things that make a hospitality property special, pale.

The rooms for example, are not of the décor that’s expected of five-star properties but at BK it is entirely forgivable. Forgivable is obviously not something the Tollman’s tolerate and in July BK begins a massive interiors overhaul. I saw some of the newly completed rooms and they are nothing short of exceptional.

They’ve managed to keep leopard print to the minimum and instead have created interiors that speak to more maturely to their African locale. Rooms are decorated in the way a great explorer might decorate his - little flurry or flounce but everything is there for a reason and to provide a texture to either deepen relaxation or understanding.

Koro Lodge is a private villa at Bushman’s Kloof and on the opposite side of the reserve from the main lodge. This guarantees absolute privacy. With dedicated kitchen staff and exclusive ranger, life at Koro can exist without interacting with other guests. Even spa treatments are available on site.

The best part of Koro (aside from its location and exclusivity) is that it can sleep two families with children sharing and at the price, from R13000 per night, is outstanding value. A comparable experience at private lodges in Kruger could cost more than four times the price.

Bushman’s Kloof is also available for those without corporate expense accounts. Although only open to residential guests, getaways are available from around R1800 per person sharing.
Despite the slow pace if you want it, days seem punctuated by meals -brunch, afternoon tea and dinner (all included in the rate) and morning rock art excursions and afternoon game drives to view mainly Antelope. Although I didn’t visit the spa, our chums, American high-powered travel agents, said the massage rated amongst the best in the world.
Some of the food was sublime - a Malay chicken curry was perfect in everyway, but all the food demonstrated passion and commitment - a hallmark of every staff member.

As invited guests, it is not uncommon to have superlative experiences, so we temper ours by talking to other guests of theirs. I have no qualms in
recommending Bushman’s Kloof as a must visit. Although it is possible to fly in from Cape Town in less than 45 minutes, the drive to Bushman’s Kloof is preferred as a meditative preparation.
There are places in the world that exert a power on those who visit. Whatever the reason, Bushman’s Kloof is one such place and worthy of pilgrimage. For those who cannot afford to enter their gates, other rock art sites are in close proximity and many and varied accommodations is offered in and around the Cederberg.
www.Bushmanskloof.com
021 685 2598.
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Good, Better, Best. From Next 48 Hours. (25-May-08)

Fire Water is a smoky, hard-covered book on South African Brandy.
The Brandy Foundation has been hard at work elevating the spirit above simply something to mix with Cola by promoting a range that is awarded amongst the best in the world.
The book retails for R330 which is excellent value considering Craig Fraser’s atmospheric photographs and Wendy Toerien’s informative, but easy reading copy.

Best reason of all to get it though, is for the recipes by the aforementioned chef Margot joined by Kitchen Cowboy and Cassia chef patron Peter Goffe-Wood, The Foodbarn’s chef patron Frank Dangereux, Reuben’s chef patron Reuben Riffel and Kleine Zalze Lodge chef Nic van Wyk.
Rather than repeat the dishes in the book, they created something new for the meal that paired well with brandy.

Chef Margot prepared finely sliced smoked salmon with a pineapple sorbet and shredded bacon vinaigrette. The plate was bejewelled by wasabi caviar and paired with Van Ryn’s 20-year Reserve.

Chef Pete served smoked duck breast with green beans, macadamias and pancetta together with Sydney Back’s 10-year old but, it was chef Frank’s seabass served with veal trotter and cep “caillette”, that most excited me.
I’ve recently enjoyed fish with meaty accompaniments (dorado with springbok at Belthazar eats wonderfully together) but this dish (imagine the cailette as a skilpadjie, liver covered in caul fat) but far more delicious.


There was a heady fug of truffle when the dish came to the table. That was served with Avontuur’s 10-year Private Collection.
Chef Reuben presented stuffed quail with vanilla sauce while chef Nic battled unscheduled load shedding, to present intense chocolate soufflés with Oude Meester Reserve prune ice cream.
A bite sized “cheese course” (halved grape, blue cheese on a shortbread biscuit) followed and finally, tobacco-infused chocolate truffles with Imoya alembic brandy and coffee. If there is a culinary experience to be had, I’m willing to try anything.
I’m not sure what I expected from the tobacco chocolate but it wasn’t to my taste. Rather than deliver a rich, floating feeling like a cigar does, it screamed at my tonsils.
We had lunch at Cassia’s private dining room at Ntida hosted by SA Brandy Foundation and Quivertree Publications.
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Head-to-toe in chocolate. From Next 48 Hours (21-May-08)

As part of the Gourmet Festival’s Restaurant Week, I had the pleasure of dining at Sinn’s - Thomas Sinn’s exquisite Wembley Square restaurant. I recommend the seafood spring roll in a Noble Late Harvest bisque served with a perfectly grilled prawn. Equally impressive was the grilled kingklip, served on a rocket risotto, with luminous green Tatsoi oil. Utterly fabulous. For dessert, lemon is presented as an ice cream, mousse and mini lemon meringue tart that is fabulous. Two courses for lunch at R75, 00 or three course at dinner at R110 is outstanding value. Menus also include a glass of wine.
Sinn’s 021 465 0967

Balducci’s tomato tart tatin is magnificent. Chef Fernando has created something as good to eat as it is to look at. There is a pure white line of crfraiche which offsets the roasted tomato flavours and a neat square of black pepper. Kingklip is encrusted with Marula nuts which I think is an exciting idea and something I hadn’t tasted before. Think crunchy Amarula.
The accompanying spicy fig and tabouleh salad is very good. They’re serving ginger three ways so expect a ginger-poached pear on top of choco filled vol-au-vent with ginger infused cr brulee complemented by a wasabi ginger sorbet.
Balducci’s 021-421-6002. R95 for lunch and R165 for dinner including beautifully paired wines.


We attended one of Richard Tomes workshops at Chocolate at Tomes at Backsberg Estate and had a wonderful time.
This is a good idea as not only will your upper body strength increase as you conch your choco, but even more so as you temper it. That said, (unconscionable I know) I had no idea what conching was. Chocolate needs to be melted and stirred for many hours to give a smooth texture (conch) and it has to be cooled quickly while repeating a spreading out and gathering movement to achieve its high-gloss beauty (tempering).
I’m not going to repeat its albeit fascinating history here. Nor am I going to tell you about health or otherwise benefits of selecting fine Belgian chocolate over the vegetable fat intensive fodder we so readily consume.
Instead I’m going to tell you about the real advantage of attending this session: the envy and incredulity we were faced with when returning home with 36 ganache centered chocolate truffles made by our hand.
Here’s how you do it: the first few hours are spent conching and tempering the chocolate. Next you pour it over your truffle mould and immediately shake it off. Despite my very vigorous shaking (I almost lost my trousers in the process) I found my chocolate shells still too thick.
Once the outer shell has hardened, it’s time to make a filling. We went for a near equal chocolate and cream ganache filling) although I would have preferred a boozy cherry. Richard suggests keeping the nozzle of the piping bag at the base of the chocolate and maintaining contact with the mixture until the last moment before lifting and moving on to the next one. This prevents a tail from forming.
The last thing to do before unmoulding your truffle is to seal the base with a chocolate layer. Again, this is easier said than done. Final steps are to decorate with milk choco using a mini piping bag made from paper.
R650 per person including wine and a deli-style lunch.
Tel 021 982 5481,
www.tomeschocolates.co.za

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Lessons in luxury by Di Paice (21-May-08)

This piece appeared today on Biz-Community as a reprint from B(R)AND magazine. I'm quoted in it which is why I'm posting it here.

Lessons in luxury
By: Di Paice


Lessons learned in the uber-luxury category can be used to woo the new luxe customer as the landscape of luxury changes.

The first problem with the luxury brands is how one defines them. The pervasive - but not the only - definition is shaped by the price of the high-ticket items that the luxury purchaser consumes. This is the definition favoured by Admakers International, a South African-based agency focusing exclusively on luxury products the world over. When they talk luxury, they're talking expensive vehicles, jets, luxury yachts and upper-end property. In that market, says Admakers' chairman Duan Coetzee, luxury as we know it is viewed differently.

“For them, a Mont Blanc pen costing R5 000 is not a luxury,” he says. “It's an expensive pen, but it's not a luxury brand.” The very rich, he is arguing, use Mont Blanc or its equivalent as everyday pens. To be classified as luxurious it would need some other component. “For us, luxury starts at around R250 000,” says Admakers CEO JP Fourie. “So our market begins where the so-called LSM 10 market tops out.” Admakers have handled brands like Porsche, Ferrari, Maserati and Rolls Royce, but the slightly more affordable car brands like Hummer, SAAB, and Cadillac that the agency also handles are still out of the reach of 95% of the general population: these brands represent the “lower strata” of the true luxury market, they argue.

In this market, television is still a viable medium of communication to would- be buyers. At this level, image is still important to the luxury buyer, says Fourie. “He wants to be seen as successful. TV comes into its own - it all rests on how you portray the vehicle, and the kind of people who drive it.” As you move up into the ether of wealth, the brands become more and more obscure, and their communication more tightly targeted, TV falls off the radar (“The strike rate is so low; Rolls Royce sold 17 cars in SA last year!”).

Using digital communication - unless it's an information website - is positively suicidal. Firstly, these people have several PAs who screen their email, so you're unlikely to get through to them to tickle their fancy, says Coetzee. Secondly, most of them are older and less computer savvy. Thirdly, uninvited mobile and email messaging is akin to spam, and the association of a luxury brand with this form of communication would harm it. Print and personal contact remain as viable a marketing communication method as ever. In the right medium and properly handled, the former can lead to the latter. For example, Admakers is currently marketing an exclusive property development on Palm Beach Florida. Properties are sold off-plan ranging from around US$ 1.2 million to US$ 12 million and are often bought on the strength of the marketing material alone. “It's all about impulse,” says Coetzee. “A property at this level represents the same financial barrier of entry to the uber-rich as a chocolate bar for the average housewife at a Woolworths pay point.”

The development is advertised in publications like Robb Report and certain financial titles. Readers who respond are visited with a personal delivery of an imposing box of expensive presents, including the latest model iPod that plays a Hollywood-produced movie featuring the development. Chairmen and CEOs of the top listed companies on the New York Stock Exchange and Nasdaq are also targeted.

“These are busy people. Why on earth would they take time to bother with the box?, one might ask.” Coetzee says the sheer size and presentation is effective in getting their attention. It is manifestly not mass market, and this in itself sends out a signal regarding the potential desirability of the product for luxury customers.

When price and genuine scarcity is the overriding factor in defining luxury, the cost of making and marketing luxury goods and services is prohibitive for brands that fall between the super-rich and the merely rich. Nevertheless, the creation and marketing of the uber-luxury products have aspects in common that can be applied to luxury brands that are not defined by a R250k base price.

#1 Luxury Rule: Design

The rich love beauty. A Ferrari F430 is not really a better cat than a BMW M3, comments Coetzee. It's only marginally quicker, it doesn't hold the road better, and it's less convenent than the M3. Yet the F430 demands four to five times the price of BMW. Why? “It looks a lot better!” Coetzee says triumphantly. “Secondly, it demands four or five times the price.” That's confident positioning.

#2 Luxury Rule: Scarcity

“Scarcity is a big brand driver. Ferrari made only 4 000 cars in 2007. BMW made hundreds of thousands. It's a strategy of limitation,” says Coetzee. Encompassed in the rule of scarcity is exclusivity: the rich want to do things not everyone can do; they want access to experiences, people, and places that are not ordinarily available, as Brian Berkman points out.

Berkman, a journalist and publicist by profession, has made it his life's mission to track down and explain luxury. Exclusivity also implies a relationship with the brand, he says. At its more extreme end, for example, Coetzee observes that “if you don't already drive a Ferrari, you'll find it almost impossible to get on the waiting list (to buy one)...”

#3 Luxury Rule: Price

Luxury goods have to be priced above the point where the upper end of the mass market can creep in. “Harley Davidson has lost the price point advantage and sales are dropping,” says Coetzee. “Honda and Yamaha produced better bikes and better looking bikes, priced slightly above Harley and the original Harley drivers are looking elsewhere.”

#4 Luxury Rule: Halos

Where the price is expensive but not unreachable, the hoi polloi start indulging, cancelling the scarcity value that largely contributes to luxury. “Some of the old luxury brands are becoming commodities. And then there are so many fakes,” says Gary Harcourt of brand consultancy HKLM, which handles several luxury properties. Many formerly luxury goods now inhabit a world between luxury and mass market, as the association between class and luxury becomes less clearcut. The producers of luxury now make ultra-luxury things, creating a halo of luxury around their lesser products. Hermes has done it with the Birkin bag. A Hermes scarf is sold somewhere in the world every 25 seconds, but the wait for a special order Birkin can be up to six years. Alfa Romeo did it with the Alfa 8C Competizine last year, making only 500 cars, which sold for around R1.5-million each. The next car down in the Alfa Romeo range is a million rand less.

#5 Luxury Rule: Association

Luxury brands associate with other luxury brands. Berkman gives a whimsical example of how when Hermes announced their colours for the 2008 season, Ladurre patisserie, fasmed tea room on the Champs-Elysee in Paris, created macarons in the same colours. Among other things, it generated plenty of press coverage, which brings us to Rule 6.

#6 Luxury Rule: Editorial

Luxury goods and services have editorial in the right media. Upmarket hotels and fabulous yachts, jet interiors and luxury or sport cars are so exquisite that editors cry out to feature them.

#7 Luxury Rule: Engage all the sense

“The more senses you can stimulate, the greater the chance of someone remembering in an overcrowded marketplace,” says Coetzee. “The challenge is to get people into a situation where you can stimulate as many senses as possible.” A very interesting example of sensory stimulation is the Teremok lodges in Johannesburg and Durban. Each suite has its own personality, with a different, mood-setting selection of CDs for each and a different fragrance and confectionery for each. “Soon all special hotels will not just has Molton Brown or Penhaligon products in their rooms; they will have specially mixed fragrances, and that will be part of the hotel branding,” says Berkman. “These are the lengths they must go to in order to differentiate themselves.”

#8 Luxury Rule: Consistence and persistence

“If you want to play in the luxury market, keep hammering away at the same positioning statement,” says Coetzee. “Take BMW, Mercedes, Audi, SAAB or Cadillac - the look is always the same in any communication. If you ask what the look of Kia, Mazda, Toyota of Nissan is, no-one knows for sure.” A final insight from Berkman: “The luxury experience isn't in itself getting champagne, Russian caviar and blini. What makes the difference is when you can pay for it, but they don't ask you to pay.”


© BRAND Magazine. Article reprinted with permission.

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Outstanding value at Restaurant Week (12-May-08)

Restaurant Week is the opportunity for Cape Town eateries to demonstrate their true skill – both in the kitchen and in their ability to call-in supplier favours. This is equally evident on the plate as in the vastly reduced price.
It is currently underway at participating restaurants as part of the Gourmet Festival until May 18. www.GourmetSA.com for more info.

I had the pleasure of dining at Sinn’s – Thomas Sinn’s exquisite Wembley Square restaurant. I recommend the seafood spring roll in a Noble Late Harvest bisque. It is served with a perfectly grilled prawn skewered by sharpened lemongrass. If I were scoring a dish out of 10 this would get 9.9. I also tasted the wild forest mushroom consommé. It was a flawless execution of a classical dish garnished with sliced mushroom pancakes, chives and turned vegetables. I didn’t especially enjoy eating it as, as is true for life, I tend to prefer the robust over the wispy.
Equally impressive was the grilled linefish – kingklip served on a rocket risotto, with luminous green Tatsoi oil. Utterly fabulous. I found the other option, slow braised beef on a mustard mashed potato with a Cabernet jus hearty and tasty but swampy.

Desserts three ways seems to be a trend at the moment and theirs – lemon presented as an ice cream, mousse and mini lemon meringue tart is so light and fresh tasting, it could, as easily, begin a meal as end it.
The heady Chocolate Fondant with caramel pear and crème fraiche ice cream will give choco addicts the hit they require.
Two courses for lunch at R75, 00 or three course at dinner at R110 per head is outstanding value. Menus also include a glass of wine.
I’m not going to guess what Sinn’s food-cost percentage is but I will say that either their produce for this event is sponsored, or they’re making a loss on these promotional items.
Sinn’s 021 465 0967

Balducci’s has worked hard at elevating itself from café to restaurant. Service levels since its inception have been amongst the highest but they’ve smartened up their cuisine too and their Restaurant Week offering indicates things to come.
Their tomato tart tatin (with the pastry on the bottom) is magnificent. Chef Fernando has created something as good to eat as it is to look at. Especially attractive is the way red caramelised onions create a chess-board pattern with the tomato. There is a pure white line of crème fraiche which offsets the roasted tomato flavours and a neat square of black pepper. Deliciously restrained. Main course options are kingklip encrusted with Marula nuts which I think is an exciting idea and something I hadn’t tasted before. Think crunch Amarula. The accompanying spicy fig and tabouleh salad is very good. I tasted the Springbok loin on roasted broccoli and cauliflower puree which is recommended. It comes with pesto crostini, deep-fried linguini and a creamed port and water chestnut jus.

Elements of ginger is, you got it, ginger three ways and uncannily similar (in concept anyway) to Sinn’s trio. Expect ginger-poached pear on top of choco filled vol-au-vent with ginger infused crème brulee complemented by a wasabi ginger sorbet.
Balducci’s 021-421-6002. R95 for lunch and R165 for dinner including beautifully paired wines.
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Diemerstontein: From Good, Better, Best. Next 48 Hours (03-May-08)

WELLINGTON is closer than you think. When friends invited us to dinner there I thought I’d pack my passport and plan to stay the night.
I’m glad I did as Diemersfontein is a fabulous place to rest a weary head and I was loathed to leave.

Perhaps visits to Franschhoek, Paarl and Pringle Bay have made the idea of travelling an hour or so for somewhere wonderful to visit less arduous.
Either way, book yourself into Diemersfontein as it is not only affordable (from R415 for single accommodation) but also very elegant and charming.

We were invited to a wine tasting but opted to lie-in before heading to dinner.
The king-size bed and white linens are immediately inviting and looking up at the reed-strung ceiling gives the feeling of life in the country.

Wine tasting is complimentary for residential guests or R15 per person. It so happened we were served Diemersfontein’s Cab Sav 04 with dinner.


It has won a double gold at the Michelangelo awards and went down like liquid velvet with the slow roasted lamb.
At breakfast the next morning, while the horses loped up the hill from their stables and the Ibis and Francolins argued, we took in the majesty of Diemersfontein.
The views are spectacular and even from our high perch, the avenue of Blue Gums on the estate’s border tower above.

There is an elegant stylishness about Diemersfontein. Rather than the neatly coiffed look of a landscaper’s attention, the beautiful gardens seem tendered by someone with a genuine love for beautiful things.

One plant had such giant leaves that must have been prehistoric. From our garden suite number 13 we looked into verdant forest.
Even though I moaned about the distance of the walk past the pool and through the rose garden to the parking area, it was worth it.
The accommodation ought to be more costly. Perhaps one of the ways it is kept largely affordable is by asking guests to carry their own bags and not supplying robes or slippers in the bathroom.

The lack of TV set and mini-bar didn’t worry me but rather gently encouraged me onto the Lutyen’s bench on the patio.
The décor style and quality of the finishes is comparable to five-star properties.
If you’re after the uber luxury experience my tip is to bring your own robe and slippers and a burley friend to carry your luggage.
Individual coffee filters are also recommended if you prefer real rather than instant coffee in the room.

Although they supplied insect wipes, I’d bring my own mozzie machine as these farm-style mozzies are meaner than the city ones.
Breakfast, included in the accommodation price, is a highlight. The almond and date muffins were delicious and the Boland eggs Benedict, served with an aubergine rosti, outstanding.

On a return visit I’d like to stay in the Manor House (R995 per room) and hide away at Diemersfontein for a week.
www.diemersfontein.co.za
021-873-2671.

 

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