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La Colombe & Jardine's (29-Jun-08)
AS A DESTINATION, Constantia Uitsig is almost unrivalled in that it supports three important food locations, a wonderful country hotel and a recently opened spa. The River Café near the entrance to the estate remains a wonderful space for breakfasts and light meals in a charming garden setting. Constantia Uitsig restaurant – originally intended as an after cricket dining spot, is now under the command of Clayton Bell while Luke Dale Roberts, is now well entrenched in the kitchen at La Colombe.
We had an exceptional experience at La Colombe. Not only were we guests at the hotel, which meant we had no more than 10 paces from our table to our bed, but the cuisine was superb. I liked the DIY condiments for the bread and enjoyed mulching the confit garlic with salt and oil in the mini pestle and mortar. A little exercise before a seven-course meal paired with wine is recommended.
The departure from La Colombe’s pure Provencal roots to include Asian influences is a welcome one, although some purists may argue against it. France exerted such influence on Asian cuisine, I see no reason to object to the reverse. Where Asia’s influence isn’t tasted, the Cape’s is, so perhaps chef Luke is creating something new. I found the dishes complex but perfectly balanced and not once interrupted by a flavour that didn’t belong or shouted for attention. His is masterful cooking. Special kudos goes to the fried scallops on a butternut and vanilla puree with citrus, coriander flavours and grapefruit and sauced with Gewürztraminer beurre blanc. Miso-Yaki butterfish on a sushi rice ball with a carrot and ginger butter reduction is exquisite. On serving the rice was perfectly white and yet, once probed, revealed a fine dice of carrot jewels.
Sweetbreads are so delicious to eat that even the squeamish should make an effort to try them here; pan-fried on baby lettuce with sweet onions, bacon and peas and finished with a mushroom jus and pea and mint cream. JP refused the dishes with foie gras and internal organs, and ordered warm salad of confit duck leg, artichokes, ceps, with a lentil and black truffle dressing instead. Although his veal loin was served with a grape braised shin and foie gras tortellini, (of which I happily relieved him), he found the cep cream and port and truffle jus a perfect accompaniment. JP thought our menu the best he’d ever tasted.
Eavesdropping on an adjacent French-accented table a diner exclaimed – “have you any idea how much this dish would cost in France?” Indeed I do, and the value for Michelin-star worthy cuisine here is obvious. LC is closed until July 15. The Winter Tasting menu, available until September, is R460 per person including wine.
La Colombe 021-794-2390.
I loved the crayfish risotto (with smoked tomato and basil) on my previous visit to Jardine’s on Bree, but now found it too al dente and the basil pronounced. The Soup of Love – oxtail with scallops was intensely flavoured and delicious but a little sparse. Pork belly, cooked for 12 hours and served with Asian mushrooms is another exceptional dish which, along with the seared tuna with fresh porcini mushrooms and ‘shroom risotto (perfectly cooked), confirms George Jardine’s award-winning reputation. The soufflé topped with flamed Grand Marnier is a theatrical triumph and divine to eat. However, while I concede others may like the buzz and hum, I found it too noisy. Acknowledging how important personal taste is, I cannot agree with the foodie establishment who place this restaurant on the top of their lists.
Jardine’s on Bree. 021-424-5640. • Permalink • Comments [9]
Curry Hurry: From Good, Better, Best in The Next 48 Hours. (23-Jun-08)
SIX curries in three days was the goal of a Sho’t Left weekend trip to Durban sponsored by kulula.com and South African Tourism to prove just how easy it was to escape the cold of Cape Town and quickly experience the spicy warmth and diversity of Durban, as part of a ‘curry hurry’.
While many are getting hot under the collar concerning the impact of flying on increasing the carbon in the atmosphere which contributes to global warming, Kulula has not only reduced emissions by 15% with its new Boeing 737-400 fleet, but is sponsoring a greening programme that is collecting donations and, until last week, the airline matched donations received.
The Elangeni Hotel on Durban’s North Beach is still as elegant as I remember it. The shield-wielding doorman outside looked just like the one that greeted me as a child.
Although I don’t remember The Jewel of India (031-337-8168) from those days, I know it has been there an age as it gives the impression of being some rich and ancient world with dark timber columns and furnishings, lavish woven rugs and stained glass ceiling panels that imbue a warmth that should prepare the taste buds for what is to come.
The starter portions are very large and we were sufficiently fed after enjoying a platter of chilli bites (whole chillies and sliced peppers in a batter and deep fried) and onion Bhajiyas (sliced battered onions in a spice mix).
Asking for an authentic Natal curry, waiter Eugene recommended the Lamb Bhuna and Chicken Vindaloo.
The Bhuna is made with a rich, thick tomato base and peppers while the Vindaloo, originally from Goa in Southern India where many migrant workers originated, shares a tomato base but is more astringent with vinegar as an undertone.
Vindaloo is often so searing and hot that it has become the dish people order to prove their chilli tolerance.
We ordered it mild but still felt the cumulative heat from the cumin, coriander and garam masala - a peppery spice mix.
Silverani’s (031-332-3260) is famous in Durban for its home-style Natal Indian cuisine.
The deliciously rich and gelatinous trotters and beans curry is renowned along with the Cornish chicken dish as special. We were happily surprised by the prawn curry in a fresh tomato sauce and the Lamb Breyani with its fragrant layers of rice and lamb.
Situated on the upper level of the Sun Coast complex with pictures of old Durban on the walls, it is so popular we would not have had a table without prior reservation.
Silverani Moodley oversees the kitchen: “I cook for the restaurant like we cook at home - just bigger portions”, she says, “and I mix my own masalas but my biggest ingredient is love.”
The Royal Hotel (031-333-6000), possibly Durban’s most established, invites diners at their ground-floor Ulundi restaurant to feast Thali style on many and varied smaller portions. Their prawn and chicken Murghee Jhinga curry is so famous, it regularly wins awards and we agreed it was the best dish we tasted while in Durban.
The sweetness from apricots and coconut milk offsets any spicy harshness perfectly. In our search for a traditional Durban curry, we ordered the aptly named Traditional Durban Curry with its heady tomato base.
A wide selection of vegetarian options makes it difficult to select just a few. The mushroom and green pea curry is fabulous.
The cream and fresh dhania (coriander leaves) bring a creamy alkaline note to the dish. Those seeking burn (I sit on the outskirts of that particular subset) should
order the Spicy Paneer (firm cottage cheese) cooked with dry red chillies -also a landmark of the Natal Curry.
We were hosted at Protea Hotel Umhlanga which, while self catering, is right next to a Spar and Woolies Foods.
Kulula Holidays offers complete travel packages starting at R999 (depending upon when you book). Each week, there are approximately 55 return flights to Durban from Cape Town and Joburg. Imperial supplied our car. • Permalink • Comments [0]
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