Hatchet job: My Cape Times column before the subs got to it...
There was more than a little excitement following my recommendation that restaurants only take reservations with a R100 deposit. Some restaurant patrons concurred, but most shared their experiences of restaurants that let them down even after booking. What’s good for the goose must also be good for the gander and if restaurants err, they should make good.
Foie gras (fattened goose liver) was another topic that caused someone to write in. Since then I’ve thought about and read various pieces (both for and against) and my view is this: While foie gras remains on menus I will order it when it pleases me. Is it cruel to produce? Probably. I think mass producing and slaughtering chickens or cattle is as cruel. Until we elect to purchase only hand-reared animals for meat or decide that consuming flesh in any form is too barbaric, I am happy to support foie gras from quality producers.
Another hobbyhorse is that Cape venues reflect our culinary heritage. Jannie Melis, new head chef at Bushman’s Kloof (021) 685-2598 has introduced a fynbos menu with items like include Buchu-smoked ostrich carpaccio and lamb shank with fynbos custard and pineapple salsa. Closer to home, The Steenberg Hotel & Spa revealed their magnificent Heritage Suites that elegantly and respectfully echo Khoi, VOC and the Cape’s Colonial roots. These suites set Steenberg apart by catering to a discerning well-heeled visitor that usually lodges privately.
If there is a trend towards the nostalgic (and the colour and shape of things suggests there is) eating a dish like Tafelspitz (R65) at Cucina Paparazzi 021-421-3047 is a retro delight. Essentially a dish of boiled beef served in its broth with sweet mustard, is a classic of European cuisine. Joseph Wechsberg’s “Tafelspitz for the Hofrat” is essential reading from Blue Trout and Black Truffles for anyone interested in dining out.
Basil Rubin and friends decided that along with other regular Thursday lunchers in St George’s Mall, that they should sit together at a long table for people to join as they wish. New York’s Algonquin Hotel was especially famous for its, and if those present when I dined is anything to by, this one may become as famous. I spied Percy Tucker, Alvon Collison, Brent Meersman with other show-biz luminaries.
Fashion stars Jane Raphaely and Jenny Le Roux were lunching at More (next to Habits) (021-671-4766) – a spot with the most fabulous bathroom. Reynold Henkle has created a pretty place for lunch or by arrangement for private dinner parties. I liked the option of having most items either as a salad, sandwich or pasta. Late risers can enjoy their breakfast menu through out the day. I wasn’t impressed with my Cesar salad (R42) as I prefer cos lettuce and want the anchovy mashed into the sauce rather than served in the salad, but the spot is lovely and I look forward to returning for the More Club (R55) as a pasta.
Until recently Gaylords was one of the few places in the South for Indian cuisine. With Bihari (021-702-2975) now open in the Westlake Lifestyle Centre, a perfect Korma isn’t far away.
The Mixed Starter R85 for two is a good idea if you don’t yet know your way around. Expect samoosas, kebab pieces and lamb mince folded around the skewer and cooked in the tandoor oven. I loved the Chicken Korma (creamy cashew nut gravy) (R85) Daal Makhani (slow-cooked black lentils in tomato gravy) (R50), stir- fried vegetable tawa (R65) and my favourite dish – palak panneer (chunks of home-made cheese in a spinach sauce. (R65). Although it is an elegant restaurant with good service, I found the menu expensive.
[23-Nov-07]
Brian Berkman
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