Subarshi and 1890 House sushi review. First published in 48 Hours.
A CHASM exists between the best sushi and the worst. I remember my first experience of Japanese cuisine at Kotoboki restaurant in the Avalon, Gardens, now long gone. It was also the first time I was served a steamed cloth to wipe my hands with before dining.
Although Japanese cuisine is much wider than just sushi, it is the combination of pickled ginger and searing-hot wasabi with still twitching fresh fish that has enslaved my taste buds. I admit I’m an addict.
As in most things, the more you pay, the better the sushi is. So, in the absence of sushi masters with exacting clients and just-landed seafood, price becomes the main arbiter of what you can expect on your plate.
Subarshi restaurant in the Spearhead building, Foreshore, has sushi available on a conveyer belt for instant gratification.
The colour of the plate determines the price you will pay. Even at their friendly prices, it is easy to quickly spend a lot of money.
Rather than sit at the sushi counter amid the colourful interior, we sat on the wrap-around terrace, perfect for people watching.
The amuse bouche, a little gift from the kitchen to amuse the mouth, is an example of their innovative approach – a California roll (rice and seeds on the outside rather than toasted seaweed as in the Maki roll) with steamed prawn and avocado in the centre, topped with a tempura (deep-fried in a light crunchy batter) prawn and then a combination of sweet chili sauce and mayonnaise as a creamy dressing.
The combination of the soft and silky (rice, avo and steamed prawn) with the crispy tempura and creamy sauce is heavenly.
Our mixed sushi selection that followed highlighted some areas for improvement: the sashimi (raw fish) was too thickly sliced, in my judgment to compensate for the failing freshness.
The result was limp tuna that tore away from the muscle under its own weight. The rolls (California and Maki) while tasty were coming apart at the seams.
There are many Asian options at Subarshi and the wok beef done with mushrooms and served on bok choy (similar to cabbage) is a robust and filling dish served with superb steamed and stir-fried vegetables and fluffy rice. At R90 it is very good value. The steamed prawn and mango salad (R47) is also good value but we were surprised at what seemed like canned mango rather than fresh.
The mojito marinated lamb cutlets (R95) would perhaps have been a better option. After all, lamb with lime and mint cannot be anything but delicious.
The green-tea smoked duck breast or Thai-style tuna seared with Asian five-spice mix might also be better choices.
Subarshi, The Spearhead, Foreshore. 021-421-3366.
The conveyer sushi bar at 1890 House Sushi in Observatory is always rightly busy. Although not inexpensive, the quality and freshness of the sushi is superb.
If there’s nothing on the belt that suits your palate just ask Uncle to prepare something for you. It will likely be on a black plate (the most costly colour) but for me the great appeal of sitting at the sushi counter is watching the chef prepare something just for me.
To demonstrate your sushi smarts, order Miso soup or Green Tea to enjoy with your sushi (rather than before or after), the low-sodium soy (with the green top), and don’t make a paste of your wasabi and soy.
Even though that’s what I do, a recent returnee from a Japanese food tour says the ginger is used as a palate cleanser, that the fish and not the rice is dipped gently into soy and that wasabi is added directly to the rice.
He also says they serve live perch. Once the sashimi is removed, the head, skeleton and tail is propped up on a stand to wriggle its last while you’re eating it.
Now that’s fresh.
1890 House Sushi and Grill, Trill Road, Observatory. 021-477-1450.
[22-Feb-10]
Brian Berkman
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