Review of River Terrace, Lourensford Estate as seen in 48 Hours.
ESPECIALLY for locavores who are concerned about the increased carbon footprint of eating food that is flown or trucked in, The River Garden café and deli at Lourensford Estate not only delivers delicious food, at a good price, but is also committed to sourcing local, estate-grown produce.
This means that the salad greens and herbs were still happily ensconced in their beds moments before they are ordered.
The trout is farmed in dams on the estate. The Healey’s cheesery (the matured cheddar is so good it continues to linger on the palate a while after you’ve swallowed it), and coffee roastery is within sniffing distance. (No, they haven’t burnt the toast!).
The more I think about the River Garden, the more I love it. It has everything I look for in a restaurant. Great location, the symmetrical gardens of Lourensford and the modernist architecture of the tasting room welcome you and, if you’re lucky enough for an outside table on the deck under a Bedouin tent, the surrounding manicured lawns are magnificent.
The food is honest and respectful of its ingredients while at the same time being sophisticated. The White Gazpacho, served with frozen green grapes and fresh bread (R32) is a twist on the classic clear tomato consommé.
The Scotch egg, a picnic favorite from yesteryear (shelled boiled egg encrusted by mince and crumbed before being deep fried, is an absolute winner). You’ll get this as part of the mezze platter (R80) which is plenty for two to share as a starter, or as a main meal of its own. Also expect Healey’s award-winning cheddar, olives, fabulous breads, coppa (Italian-style biltong) salami, and kitchen-made pear chutney.
Portions of the bobotie springroll (R38) were being served to a nearby table.
They’re cut in half at an angle and served with the oblique side northwards to look like a collection of space-age buildings. My choice of the coronation chicken wrap (R55) again confirmed the skill and commitment of the kitchen team.
Every element was right – the tortilla was fresh and soft yet held the ample ingredients in place, the layers of lettuce neatly providing a green ring akin to a sleeping bag for the creamy chicken with just a hint of curry.
Toasted flaked almonds and fresh coriander provide both crunch and herbaceous green notes.
We knew JP’s wild mushroom risotto (R55) was on its way from the kitchen as the heady and musty aroma from the truffle oil arrived before the dish did. They use pecorino cheese here which is spot on. I’d probably have used parmesan myself but concede that the pineapple notes from parmesan might overpower the delicate mushroom.
The dish that prevented this meal from being among the greatest we’ve enjoyed was the tian of smoked trout (R50). I found the Asian flavours in the marinade in conflict with the pleasing avocado and lightly smoked trout.
We shared a fabulously rich baked cheese cake (R45) topped with macerated berries with coffee to end.
You’d be wise to book in advance. We dined there on a Friday afternoon and all the outside tables were already taken. If you decide just to pop in and they can’t seat you, buy some bread, cheese and smoked trout from the deli and head to the lawns behind the restaurant for an impromptu picnic.
Lourensford Estate, Lourensford Road, Somerset West. 021-847-2328.
[26-Feb-10]
Brian Berkman
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