Constantia Uitsig Restaurant reviewed July 2010
By Brian Berkman
IF ever there were a one-stop-shop for fine dining, Constantia Uitsig with its agapanthus, tree-lined avenue and cricket oval would be it.
Uitsig Restaurant, the first to open on the site in 1992 that now also has La Colombe and The River Café, is in the original manor house and as such, enjoys the best views over the lawns, vineyards and onwards to the mountains.
Chef Clayton Bell has paid sufficient dues to the founding chef Frank Swainston, who passed away more than a year ago, so I look forward to seeing more of his personality stamped on to the menu in preference to dishes like Sam’s Ravioli and Robbie’s bread and butter pudding, which still carry Frank Swainston’s energy.
Not that I’m suggesting Bell mess with Uitsig’s most enduring quality - consistency, nor that he begin to introduce unnecessary complexities to his Italian country menu, but rather that his name now becomes associated with this fine restaurant.
The Parma ham-wrapped figs stuffed with gorgonzola (R75) are magnificent. They look like rosebuds that are just opening and the exquisite combination of the salty ham with the sweet fig and sharp, but creamy cheese centre, are dreamy. Also on Planet Dream in the culinary galaxy is the foie gras parfait with its beautiful cafe au lait colouring and soft chocolate truffle texture (R100).
Sam’s Pasta, named after Frank’s girlfriend, is ravioli filled with wild mushrooms and ricotta with a mushroom and parmesan sauce and a hint of truffle oil (R95) which is tasty enough if you like those musty, earthy flavours but I’d sooner again order the coral Norwegian salmon. Bell uses vanilla with his salmon which adds an exotic, resinous layer that reminds me a little of aniseed. It works beautifully with the leeks, potatoes and elegant Chardonnay sauce (R145).
Our two main course dishes, the lamb noisettes (R145) on wilted spinach with garlic sauce and veal scaloppini (R150) with the most deliciously astringent artichokes and herby mashed potatoes with pancetta, are both winners.
To bolster against the wintery weather, JP asked for the banana sponge pudding (R60) with its sticky toffee sauce while I ordered Robbie’s bread and butter pudding R55 which is inexplicably served cold. I did enjoy the boozy raisins and beautiful crème anglaise.
Although not inexpensive, Uitsig delivers on every level. It is one of the few restaurants where you can take the most discerning diner to with confidence. A large family group were celebrating together the Sunday we dined there and I can’t think of many other restaurants where such a wide range of ages and dining proclivities can be met at the same table.
Take advantage of their winter specials menu. Diners at Constantia Uitsig Restaurant can enjoy a three-course menu with a carafe of wine for R260 for lunch and R290 for dinner. The special offer is available until September 31, except on Sundays and between August 30 and September 18, when they are closed.
Constantia Uitsig Restaurant
021-794-4480.
www.constantia-uitsig.com
Brian Berkman writes about luxury travel and dining out. Follow BrianBerkmanZA on Twitter or see www.BrianBerkman.com
[01-Jul-10]
Brian Berkman
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