Nitida Wine Estate, Durbanville, has made a name for itself with its fine wines and Farmer’s Market on the last Saturday of the month but this, apparently, wasn’t enough to keep the largely well-heeled local market supporting the first incarnation of its gatehouse restaurant, Cassia.
I was surprised to learn that the previous venture, a partnership between two fine and experienced restaurateurs, had gone poorly.

This, according to new chef proprietor, Warren Swaffield, previously of Avocado Restaurant, was largely due to elevated prices. Chef Florent Hameau heads the kitchen now and has managed to keep prices down.

It’s a no-brainer, really. You still get the great location with views over the mountains, vineyards and fountain-spouting-water feature. You still get the smart, minimalist barn-style interior and event rooms. You still get great service and, we thought, excellent food. JP and I quickly agreed to return soon, for our own account. At these prices, on average 15 – 20% less than previously, Cassia can be a let’s-nip-out-for-supper option.

At R80, the offal of the day is a substantial meal of its own. I prefer liver pink inside but acknowledge this dish of ox offal was perfectly cooked, heaped up on to a generous portion of mashed potato. But I’m getting ahead of myself. To start, the rabbit pie was just the dish to warm away the cold and rain.
The rectangle of puff pastry is baked separately and jauntily added to the ramekin like a smart (if oversized) pill-box hat.

This succeeds for two reasons: those who want their fat rather in the cream of the dish can discard it, while others, (and I mean me), can have a perfectly crisp piece of beautiful pastry to eat with the gravy, like dunking a rusk into steaming tea. If you only order one dish at Cassia, make it the rabbit pie. It is cooked in a rich white sauce that only begins to satisfy as you reach the end of it, leaving the mouth hungry for your next choice. You’ll call for the menu in no time.
JP, usually the less adventurous eater, asked for crayfish risotto. The risotto needed more time in the pot while the small disk of lobster meat was overcooked. The rice did have a deliciously heady bisque flavour.
I used to dream about the Springbok Shank served under the previous owners with its berry and red-wine flavours.

Springbok is on the menu now but they serve the shank and a piece of Impala loin meat, with baked apple and red currant jelly, which I had to wrestle away from JP. Our strategy to share each dish was pushed aside when he started eating his Springbok.

We expected more from the Malva, both in vinegarishness and portion size, but the cheese selection is incredibly good value. I especially liked the home-pickled vegetables, artisan breads and cheese straw.
All Cassia’s main meals are finished off in a wood roasting oven. To reserve your table or for more information, call Cassia on
Tel: 021-976-0640 or e-mail info@cassiarestaurant.co.za.

When Brian Berkman isn’t offending bunny-huggers, he assists clients with media campaigns. Brian@BrianBerkman.com