Buitenverwachting Restaurant reviewed. August 2010
I’ve been to this estate many times and originally felt irritated at having to drive around the cows grazing, past the horses, the winery and other historic buildings before reaching the restaurant.
Now I look forward to that trip as it helps me transition into a calmer frame of mind, one better able to enjoy such bucolic surroundings.
The restaurant, a partnership between the Mueller family who own the farm and chef patron Edgar Osojnik, has again been refurbished. There are now beautiful timber floors in the sitting room.
Unfortunately, the previous wood-burning fireplace has been removed. They’ve arranged candles where the grate once stood, which may create atmosphere in the dark but during the day looks like the votive counter in a church. This is a smart restaurant serving smart food. I was impressed that chef Edgar wasn’t in the kitchen when we dined.
Although I enjoy his company and Teutonic temperament and looked forward to seeing him, it indicates that he trusts his deputies in the kitchen to serve the same standard of food that he would. This should be the case in every restaurant.
As an aside, while I’ve heard only good things about the Bistro at Steenberg, I was asked not to visit the restaurant when the exec chef wasn’t personally available.
Buitenverwachting's Nuptials food and wine pairing menu is a collaboration between restaurant managers Etienne Borman and Nick Tenvelden and the chef.
While I recognise the skill and investment in equipment required to create spumes, gels, pearls and other culinary tricks, I’m not impressed by them and the sooner chefs turn their backs on deconstruction or “molecular gastronomy” as Heston Blumenthal puts it, the better.
But don’t get me wrong about eating at Buitenverwachting. Despite this distraction and their perceived need to be inventive, you will eat superb cuisine at every turn.
The nuptials menu will be up or down sized to suit you. You want six courses but aren’t very hungry? The kitchen will produce mini versions for you.
The trio of soups (R68), served in shot glasses as a starter, is magnificent. The tomato soup is so tasty you’ll also wonder how it is possible to concentrate flavour so much without even a hint of excess acidity. Equally you’ll marvel at the roasted garlic soup that tastes the best part of the way garlic smells while roasting – sweet and heady.
The subtle spinach soup is a welcome contrast. I don’t think the addition of roasted pork belly adds to the experience.
The soups, with the exception of the tomato, pair well with the estate Blanc de Noir. The puff pastry baked Salmon Trout (R90) with buttercup yellow Hollandaise and fennel potatoes is delicious and a perfect pairing with the Rudero ‘Robusto’ Chenin Blanc.
When I saw Monkfish Osso Bucco (R105/R155) on the menu, I expected either the fish to be cooked with veal in that classic tomato, carrot meat sauce or the fish, which is wonderfully meaty to be cooked in a tomato and carrot sauce.
The surprise is the way the fish is cut resembles the cut of veal. I was delighted by the accompanying squid linguini which is witty and tasty – expect squid bodies filled with tentacles of ink-coloured pasta. Perfect!
More perfect, however, is the veal (R140/R215) – grilled medallions of veal with a sublime morel-sweet corn risotto and chive jus that like Anton Ego in Ratatouille, reminds me of the best of home.
It is paired with the Whale Haven Pinot Noir ’99 chosen for the warm vintage that brings greater ripeness to the fruit.
Buitenverwachting, Klein Constantia Road,Constantia. 021 794 3522 www.buitenverwachting.com
When not enjoying pastoral scenes, Brian Berkman assists clients with public and media relations. See www.brianberkman.com or follow BrianBerkmanZA on Twitter.
[13-Aug-10]
Brian Berkman
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