Perhaps it is a strategy to corner every aspect of the eating market but Susan Huxter, arguably the person who has made the greatest contribution to putting Franschhoek on the culinary map, heads two restaurants, equally excellent but diametrically opposed when it comes to what is served on the plate.
At Le Quartier Francais Tasting Room, about which I will write more in the weeks to come, the kitchen’s goal is to surprise, challenge and delight with inventive methods and combinations. At Bread and Wine, on the nearby Môreson Wine Estate, the goal is to elevate the traditional approach to bread baking and charcuterie and cooking using the best available ingredients.
Chef Neil Jewell is well known for his passion for curing meats. The antipasto plate (R105) is the perfect expression of this. It comes in two sizes and this one is sufficient as a main course lunch or for two to share as a starter. Rather than crumb and deep fry his Scotch egg, his is covered with ham. There will be pork and beef sausages, Spanish salami, mortadella , chorizo, three-year cured apple ham, three pepper salami and others. It also comes with soft yoghurt cheese balls and olives. It is all topped by a crown of rocket and crispy crostini.
The Caesar Salad (R50) is the perfect companion to the antipasto as it provides a lusciousness in contrast to the Spartan rocket. The rare roast beef prime rib (R130) served with lentils and bone marrow is exceptional. The meat is sliced and served on top of the flavour absorbing lentils while the slick marrow brings richness and moisture.
I thought the price a little high before eating this dish but as it is perfect in every possible way it delivers superb value for money.
The paella too, while not what traditionalists expect, is beyond delicious. Also at the R130 price point, which I feel is a little high given we’re in the country in a pleasant but simple environment. The Paella has Greek orzo pasta “rice” and is more like a fish broth with mussels, calamari, hake and scallops. The break from tradition doesn’t make it any less desirable or wonderful to eat though.
When the bar is raised so high, the low-point is when the poached rhubarb (R40) is stringy and too tart. We’d had rhubarb elsewhere the same week and it was that beautiful coral pink we have come to expect it to be.
This was odd because I had purchased fresh rhubarb the same week which was green. When I asked the chef, he admitted to colouring it with grenadine. Bread & Wine score top marks in my book for not colouring theirs.
My pastry crumble (R40) of apples and sultanas was perfect. The pastry base crisp, the fruit correctly cooked and the crumble delicious. Môreson’s Premium Chardonnay (R35 per glass) is one of my favourites to drink and the Môreson Sauvignon Blanc R18 very quaffable.
Môreson has also added a Miss Molly range in honour of their estate dog. The names and labels are very witty and we enjoyed tasting the Miss Molly Kitchen Thief SB. Any day now the estate will launch their hothouse of exotic flowers.
www.lqf.co.za
www.moreson.co.za
021-876-3692.
When Brian Berkman stops eating for long enough to do some work, he assists clients with PR and publicity campaigns. See www.brianberkman.com or follow BrianBerkmanZA on Twitter.