The Greenhouse at Constantia-Hohenort Hotel and Willow Creek.
Peter Templehoff has received much acclaim for his cuisine. As executive chef of The Collection by Liz McGrath, he is responsible for feeding guests at The Cellars-Hohenort in Constantia, The Plettenberg and The Marine Hotel in Hermanus.
The Cellars-Hohenort is the sort of old-fashioned hotel that has proper room keys, on chains, and rather than expecting you to make morning tea and coffee yourself, they ask for your order before you retire at night. Templehoff's modern cuisine in this setting is even more arresting. Like the spectacular nine hectare gardens that surround the hotel, what is served on the plate is fragrant and dazzling - a thing of beauty to look at and to eat.
I prefer not to eat multi-course tasting menus so was relieved to see that I could just order four courses. Amazingly, there were simply too many dishes I wanted to eat on the seven-course tasting menu that we opted for it nonetheless. I don't know when last that happened.
Nothing is what it seems at The Greenhouse and you'll be forgiven for following one of the stone bunnies down the rabbit hole. Beetroot and goat's cheese lollipops are served in edible grass and a diminutive "Scotch" egg, made from crumbed quail's egg with prawn suggest what is to follow.
The fabulous bread selection arrives in a bamboo steamer with bread sticks that protrude like a lobster antennae. In the flickering candle light I'm sure I saw them twitch. A mini-flower pot comes with a mini garden – a new-born carrot – so tiny and full of flavour – a sugar snap pea that bursts with flavour, a chicory leaf and, under the edible soil (breadcrubs, chocolate etc) a dreamy green from crème fraiche and nasturtium.
Rich, pan-fried Foie gras has a tart raspberry gel that rids the mouth of the cloyingness before flavours are rounded with the warmly savoury notes of the onion marmalade and puy lentils. Crumbed Asian mushrooms provide crunch.
An artful prawn and avocado roll follows, but it is the Fynbos-smoked ostrich tartar that convinces us this menu is designed to delight all the senses. It is served in an "ostrich shell" on a plate with a Xmas wreath garnish.
I ask if this, too, is edible. It isn't. First we see the pale horseradish foam – it matches the colour of the egg shell perfectly and underneath, in layered flavours and textures the avocado mousse, tomatoes and shredded ostrich. My mouth is assaulted by hot, smokey, silky, slimy, and tart flavours and sensations – exquisite in every way.
Oven-roasted quail with egg sous vide (cooked in the bag), a technology that is one of Templehoff's hallmarks can be checked out online. (See www.PeterTemplehoff.com for his essay on the technique).
The penultimate flourish is a "camembert cheese cake", a surprise I won't spoil for you and the creamiest and tastiest roasted pineapple ice cream served with pine nut biscotti. The final delight is a diminutive hat stand with mini macaroons and chocolate truffles. Expect Alice or the Queen of Hearts to appear any moment.
Where others have contrived, copied and fiddled the flavour out of their food – Templehoff has created a feast that will delight and can be enjoyed by everybody.
The Greenhouse, The Cellars-Hohenort Hotel, Constantia. 021-794-2137.
Willow Creek has introduced two innovative products that have really impressed me. Gourmet Squeeze is a plastic bottle that looks like glass, with an eye through which I can squeeze olive oil into a dish but which also allows me to shake a few drops out at a time. Their credit-card sized Snap and Squeeze dispenses 8ml of Willow Creek Olive Estate's award winning Directors' Reserve Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Cabernet Sauvignon Balsamic Vinegar respectively. I love that I can pack a picnic salad and now have the wherewithal to perfectly dress it without having to lug heavy bottles around.
www.willowcreek.co.za
When Brian Berkman isn't jumping down proverbial culinary rabbit holes, he assists clients with public relations campaigns. Follow BrianBerkmanZA on Twitter and see www.BrianBerkman.com.
[03-Nov-11]
Brian Berkman
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