Ground Zero: St Paul's church is Manhattan's oldest public building and has provided refuge over hundreds of years. It witnessed the fall of the adjacent World Trade Centre four years ago and then, as it does now, provided a place for the city's tears. Bells throughout the city are tolling for the dead. Brothers and sisters read out the names of their siblings who perished while others - some like me just curious onlookers, walk the cavern's perimeter. Just the next-of-kin are allowed onto the site itself, so the rest of us pace the lengths or sit in the warm sun. The sky is perfectly clear today and while some have their heads back looking into the heavens, none has a smile on their face. People express themselves in different ways - one man has New York 9/11/01 Never Forget tattooed on his right arm, another wears a T-shirt - Never Forget Kevin Reilly  FDNY 9/11/01.

Less than a block away people are queuing for their bagels and coffee - a gorgeous woman in front of me orders the Everything Bagel with extra cheese and I order my first (and last) knish. As a culinary adventurer I regularly put my "eating anything at least once" motto into practice. The knish is mashed potato mixed with spinach and then covered in a light pastry batter.