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Commodore

Can-do attitude leads to wonderful lunch

That incandescent PR duo of Pam Bowling and Kerry Seymour invited foodies to a tasting with the Rob Creaser, the new chef at the Commodore Hotel. He demonstrated a number of dishes but his Norwegian salmon, steeped in soy sauce and served on buckwheat noodles with vanilla coconut milk really impressed me so I resolved to order it when I visited.

I wanted to bounce some ideas of food TV guru Anthony Rogers so I invited him to lunch at the Commodore, at the Waterfront. We were the only table within eyesight and I, still woozy from hitting my head on a low retaining beam in the underground parking, felt like the Admiral with fawning minions in sailors gear fussing around me. The nautical theme is carried throughout and the restaurant and is both comfortable and expansive even if it teeters on looking somewhat like a Captain Cook film set.

The restaurant was to be put through its paces because, not satisfied with ordering from the light lunch menu which didn’t feature the Salmon that I wanted, Anthony is a vegetarian and didn’t care for the standard vegetarian fare.

Tempting the carnivore

One of the ways I judge a fine restaurant is on its willingness and ability to prepare what a diner wants irrespective of its availability on the menu. Our waiter’s can-do attitude confirmed with the kitchen and we set sail.

To start I relished the Scallop kebabs (R58.50) with roasted baby tomato. The garlic chips, thin slices of dried garlic, provided a wonderfully pungent note to the dish which complemented the roquet leaves. Anthony ordered the vegetable salad (R28.50) which even tempted this ardent carnivore.

The salmon with buckwheat noodles was sublime. Just cooked, resplendent pink, inviting. Simply garnished with Asian-cut spring onions and pink grapefruit, the spicy sweetness of the vanilla offset by the acidic tang. For me this is cooking at its best. Beautiful raw ingredients simply combined.

Anthony’s custom-made vegetarian platter (R48) was a hit. Roasted butternut, coriander and sweet potato mash, sun-dried tomato and lentil compote, roast parsnips and other nibbly bits.

Perfect in simplicity

At the chef’s tasting there was some competition between the head and sous chefs as to whose dessert would find greater favour with now the festive foodies. Chocolate and macadamia nut spring rolls served with white chocolate ice cream was Rob’s offering while his sous chef prepared a coffee panna cotta with a pistachio tuile biscuit. Anthony didn’t require any prompting to order the spring rolls which he exalted but I frankly found too contrived. The coffee panna cotta, cream held in a gelatin, was perfect in its simplicity.

We had a wonderful lunch. Both buffeted by five double espressos, my headache from the bump reduced to a background drone, we were picture-perfect happiness until I reached into my pocket for my wallet.

Simultaneously confused and embarrassed I searched my other pocket and then the pockets of my jacket before poking my head around the floor to see if my wallet had fallen out. You’ll recall that I was trying to make a positive impression on Anthony hoping that he may produce and direct one of my ideas to the same glory as The Gourmet Girls or Coxan’s Fit for a King, so asking him to settle the bill on my behalf all but spoiled the sweet taste left by the panna cotta. Like a true gentleman he dismissed my embarrassment and settled.

Bruised ego

My ego was further bruised when I had to borrow money to get out of the parking garage.

My wallet was sitting expectantly on my desk when I got back and I transferred the money into Anthony’s account with an alacrity seen only in those trying to save face.

I see now that if I had ordered low-cal my dietary spiritual guides would have ensured my wallet would have been firmly in my pocket when needed. I hope my burnt offering of charred toast the following day has appeased them. Even still, next time I order a triple-decker burger with onion rings and chips, I’ll make sure my wallet is right in front of me first.

Book for The Clipper Restaurant at the Commodore on 021- 415-1000.


Top of the Times restaurant reviews are unannounced and paid for in full.
 
Brian Berkman is a publicist with a passion for good living. He holds Bill Stafford’s Diploma in Professional Cookery.
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