Kotobuki (021-462-3675) in Mill Street, Gardens, was the first Japanese restaurant where I tasted sushi. I remember the impact the stark interior had on me, the high-back blond-wood chairs with the boat-like slatted holders for the steamed hand towels. My interest was piqued. I think the next place was Fujiyama (021-434-6885), where I remember being seduced by their Phillippe Starck interior. There, my Japanese horizons were widened to include Tempura (KFC Zen-style) and Teppenaki, the flat grill where the chefs took lessons from Tom Cruise in Cocktail (probably the other way around) in salting your meat mid air while bouncing a bottle of soy on their knees.
Over the years I’ve eaten Sushi often and developed a work-ethic around doing it right – saki at blood temperature (rice wine that hits the spot in one-and-a-half seconds), yeasty Miso soup with seaweed and bean curd and a series of rolls (seaweed, rice and center ingredient), sashimi (slices of raw fish with pickled ginger and wasabi (green blow-your-head-off horseradish) and cleansing green tea to end.
I know I’m thumbing my nose at a thousand years of Japanese cuisine but the truth is, I’m bored. My palate is used to the shocking combination of hot and sour and the sublime sensation of slithery Sashimi. I still love it, but not for an entire meal. Two restaurants offer a culinary diversion:
East Way, 4 Deer Park Drive, Highlands Estate. 021-465-4334
I happened on East Way by accident. Yum was on our radar for their delicious Green curry noodles but I noticed that Champers, a classic French restaurant where I’d experienced frogs' legs, veal sweetbreads and crocodile for the first time, had closed and had been replaced by East Way.
The Irascible Vegetarian, already sold on the idea of delicious noodles, was steadfast; only my pointing out how cheap East Way was, convinced him otherwise.
He grumbled a lot before the food arrived. He didn’t like the plastic covered table cloths, the coughing hostess who he thought would give him TB nor the clueless waitress who, although we spelt out wasabi, still didn’t know what we wanted. It was her first day. Saki (R30) was the only remedy.
Those who remember Champers will fondly recall the regal red carpets and elegant warm lighting. Under white-hot halogens that would allow the half-blind to thread a needle, the red carpets don’t look so good.
But the food was outstanding.
Maybe expectation had been shattered by the garish lighting and service but the salmon and avo roll (R22 for eight pieces) was magnificent and even the Irascible Vegetarian smiled. He ordered two portions of rolls along with Miso (R12) while I opted for the special – Swordfish Teppenyaki (R55). I’d expected the swordfish to be cubed but I wasn’t unhappy with the steak's presented, although eating them with chopsticks was a little challenging. I opted for the slightly sweet Terriyaki sauce and stir-fry veg on the side.
As I was pigging out that night I asked for a portion of vegetable tempura (R35) -- which was crunchy, fresh and delicious, and served in a stack on dripping paper with a wedge of lemon and dipping sauce -- before my fish arrived .
I don’t know how long they’ve been there but on a Saturday night well after eight, we were the only guests until a large table arrived. It included an adventurous journalist I know, which does auger well for their future.
In all, a wonderful meal, which would be greatly improved by softer lighting and Oriental service.
Village Chinese Restaurant and Sushi Bar. 77 Regent Road, Sea Point. 021-439-3422
Hairdressers always seen to know the gossip about what’s in and who’s not. So when the fabulous Steven Fine, who even manages to give me a good haircut despite the joke about me having more crowns than a queen, told me about this new place next to his salon – I hot footed it there.
Again the Irascible Vegetarian accompanied me but, after his tortuous explanations of what he wanted different from the menu, he may become a less frequent dining partner. He tried all but using cue cards and sign language to make himself understood to our waiter, including drawing pictures in the air, which left me writhing inside as if a tapeworm was eating my brain.
Village Chinese is not a new restaurant. I’d eaten there many times when they were on the top floor of the Spar centre in Sea Point, where I enjoyed three-cup chicken for the first time. What is new, though, is the introduction of a sushi bar.
It poses a cultural conundrum: If cuisines belonging to formally warring dynasties can be enjoyed in the same restaurant, perhaps there is hope for the Middle East? Sure, there are loads of places that serve steak and sushi but I don’t know of a single restaurant that combines both cuisines. A real treat to move from subtle sushi to the screaming Taiwanese without leaving the table.
The fish looked magnificent and I believe it is sourced from the new seafood shop next door.
A note of warning: I guess there is one cup of garlic in the three-cup chicken, judging by the distance people kept from me the next day – even the artful calligraphy with good-luck wishes on the restaurant’s wall didn’t help.
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