Just walking up the stairs to the imposing Victorian house with a deep porch and white fancifully flowing curtains should be sufficient exercise to allow one not to watch one’s waist. I’ve been watching my waist for some time now, and it seems that the more I watch it, the more it grows, like a subversive coup against my continued good health.

The restaurant had been recommended to me by Dorothy Shapiro, whom I met at a birthday party. After dissing most of Cape Town’s restaurants she said Manolo was one worth visiting. It was on the strength of this that I arranged a luncheon there for my client, Rooiberg, to introduce their award-winning wines.

I arrived before the guests did to be greeted by Joop’s blue eyes, which somehow reflected the neon-blue lighting of the vaulted pressed ceiling of the corridor, which houses a long marble-clad, under-lit bar. For this, and other reasons, I vowed to eat healthily, and started with their Ceaser’s Salad (R33) Cos lettuce, garlic croutons, parmesan and quail eggs with a divine anchovy dressing.

I tasted both the tuna tartare and the springbok carpaccio (both R43) off the starters menu, which were good. The roasted red pepper and tomato soup was served like a cappuccino with a basil foam and an aubergine beignet that looked like a biscotti. (R33) Culinary deconstruction meets coffee bar!

I went for the almost fat-free Norwegian salmon (R82), which is encrusted with Fynbos honey and sesame seeds before being seared. It is served with the super-trendy wasabi mash, sautéed bok choi and a Thai lemongrass and coconut milk veloute (soup/sauce thickened with egg yolk and cream).

As a principle I favour less fussy food but this dish didn’t taste like the usual nuclear explosion I’ve been experiencing when chefs do fusion for its own sake. It worked.

The décor feels inspired by Philippe Starck (whom I worship) and Manolo has created a lighting effect with bulbs with exaggerated filaments that float above your eyes like glowing coiled fairies.

Although I haven’t been abroad for some time, this interior feels decidedly international and a Matisse-style sketch of the Queen of Holland both reigns over the lounge and hints at the owner’s nationality.

Nancy, our tall Oriental waitress, could be strutting catwalks when not serving tables. She managed well with our demands for fresh glasses every time we enjoyed a new wine. Colin Collard, one of our guests, seemed singled out to receive both his starter and main course late, but other than that, we were well looked after.

On reflection, I do think the prices are a little excessive but it’s a special spot and, for a special occasion, I suppose they are justified. The main courses were R82 or R94 for the sole with shrimp tortellini. All desserts were R33 and I opted for the healthy but delicious lemongrass-infused naarjie consommé served with tangerine sherbet and sweet phylo chopsticks with berries. Guests raved about the dark chocolate truffle cake and three mixed flavour crème brulees.

Manolo. 30 Kloof Street, Cape Town. 021-422-4747.

The bill for this review was paid by Rooiberg Wines.