The smouldering volcano in the wall-long mural of Pompei hasn’t changed since I first visited this restaurant in the seventies, nor has the family-kitchen feel of this extremely popular Sea Point landmark.

We arrived on Tuesday without a booking and were relegated to one of the centre tables at which I felt exposed, and the bistro-style chairs gave a little too much under my weight. I’ll remember to reserve a table on the side for my next visit.

Craig Leventhal, my dinner guest, is a regular at Pizzeria Napolentana and seemed comfortable with Piero’s Italian temperament and gesticulations. I half-expected a smack on the back of my head when I asked for his recommendations.

“If it's low fat you want”, he said, “fish, baked or grilled is the answer, with vegetables or pasta instead of chips.” When asked to recommend a starter, a salad was the best he could come up with.

I revelled in the righteousness of my Italian salad (R16,96) pretending that the delicious crunch of the lettuce, sweetness of the tomatoes and residual oil in the olives (unpitted) and anchovies were sufficient compensation, Craig tucked into his Calamari special (R38, 95). My resolve crumbled and I tasted one. Like heroin to an addict. Perfectly tender, perfectly seasoned with garlic and herbs and loads of oil!

There was bread on the table and butter that looked like farm butter but I virtuously munched mine unadorned until Craig asked for some chillis. I drizzled some of the chilli oil over the bread – not as much fat as butter with a wonderful bite.

My line fish, Cape Salmon (Line fish Romano (R59,95) was encrusted with garlic, tomato and parsley and baked in the pizza oven. The fish was delicious and perfectly cooked - still firm and succulent. At first bite, the pungent garlic seemed to mask the taste of the fish. In fact, the garlic was too strong, burning my mouth. If roasted instead of fresh garlic had been used a heady sweetness would have complemented the fish better than the raw cloves.

Vegetables were roasted peppers (I would have preferred them peeled) and cabbage. Both were delicious but hardly low-fat options, based on the residual oil in the dish.

Perhaps I should have asked if the vegetables could be steamed, but fear of an imminent smack on the head silenced me.

Craig enjoyed his Veal and showed none of my cowardice when quizzing Piero if he should have it with sage and brown butter, with lemon or grilled. At R49,95, the four slices seemed excellent value. I was surprised that veal, which is harvested shortly after birth, was cheaper than the line fish. I didn’t see the tell-tale milkyness in the flesh that one expects but it was tender and tasty (I succumbed again) and Craig enjoyed it grilled with chips.

We were told as we were leaving that they were short of two staff members, which may explain why the rosebuds on the tables had been there for too long, a table adjacent to ours was left unset after guests left, and it took much too long for us to be offered dessert or coffee after our meal.

When we finally caught the waiter’s attention, he said he wouldn’t bring us menus because they only had Cassata, Ice cream and chocolate sauce and one other I don’t recall. Perhaps if there had been a sorbet or fruit salad I would have ordered.
Our bill, including a mineral water, coke and a tip, came to R200.

Pizzeria Napoletana, 178 Main Road, Sea Point. Tel: 021-434-5386.