Some of you may recall that this column began life as my recommendation of where one could get a meal that was as delicious as it was healthy. But, dear reader, I too have noticed its decline from self-righteous sensibility into debauchery. In truth, this is more because I cannot navigate my way past the appeal of golden-brown deep fries and tender succulent steaks.
Healthy eating is for me like a mirage oasis in the desert – the harder I try to find it, the more nebulous it becomes. I pray that my taste for blanched spinach and boiled chicken will develop but in the meantime, here are two great options for steaks.
Top of the Ritz Restaurant. The Ritz Hotel, Cnr Main & Camberwell Roads, Sea Point. Tel: 021-439-6988
I have, for many years, had a pyromanic fascination with Chateau Briand – an entire grilled fillet, flambéed with brandy and served with Béarnaise sauce – since the night I ordered it at the Holiday Inn in the Wilderness and their kitchen burnt down. So it was with both expectation and a little trepidation (you see, the Top of the Ritz is on the 21st floor) that we ordered it. As delicious as it was, it did not arrive to the table aflame, which really disappointed me, and I resolved to have at least one burning dish before we left.
About three years ago, I ate lavishly at the Café Royal in London in the hope that some of Oscar Wilde’s style and wit would rub off on me. In fact, the only lingering impact was the bill, which I had to pay on my budget account. Anyhow, the Roast Woodcock that I ordered was served with burning branches. Very dramatic, but the only thing I can recall about the meal.
The revolving restaurant at the Top of the Ritz is truly a special venue. We arrived early in order to watch the sunset over the sea and the one revolution per hour was gentle enough to take in Cape Town’s magnificent views without feeling dizzy. It is only slightly on the pricey side and well worth it for a special night out.
The dish (R178), prepared for a minimum of two, was served with lightly steamed turned carrots, Brussels sprouts and cauliflower florets along with two, individual portions of creamed potato gratin. There are only a handful of restaurants that serve classical French cuisine well and this certainly is one of them.
The fillet was prepared beautifully. We ordered it very rare to start with so that when it got cold we could send it back for warming without having all the juices dried out. I thought the Béarnaise could have been a little more acidic by using more tarragon vinegar with the butter. Between the three of us (the irascible vegetarian, who when the fancy takes him, eats chicken) enjoyed the Ritz Chicken Salad (R29, 50). We quaffed Pongracz (R81, 50) throughout the meal and almost fainted when we were charged for Moet on the bill. With consummate elegance, this was rectified and we were offered a digestive on the house as an apology.
Our desserts – a real highlight – were Crepe Suzette – pancakes cooked in butter and flambéed with orange liqueurs and doused with orange juice (R36, 50) prepared at the table – and a chocolate fondue for two (R49,00) with fruits and marshmallows for dipping into the melted chocolate. The pianist and elegant service make this one to return to.
The Hussar Grill. 10 Main Road, Rosebank. Tel: 021-689-9516
The Hussar Grill has been there for as long as I can remember and we found it bursting at the seams on Saturday night. We arrived without a booking and were asked to wait while another table was leaving. The promised five-minute wait felt more like 15 minutes but we were enjoying a bottle of Vergelegen Mill Race (R85) while eavesdropping on a huge table of aging sports fans.
Without being asked, we were placed in the smoking section at a table so tight I’m amazed I managed to fit in without lubricant and while I consider myself tolerant, cigarette smoke is the single odour that offends me beyond any other. So I opted for a pre-dinner cigar and was delighted that they sell Davidoff’s cigarillos (my favourite) at R20 a pop, which I thought was well priced.
I overheard that the owner of Nauties across the way was now in partnership at the Hussar Grill and it felt good to see chef patrons at the grill. As The Hussar is famous for its steaks I opted for a carpetbagger (R79) – fillet filled with smoked oysters and covered in a cheese sauce – while the irascible vegetarian, (soon needing a new name) ordered the Spring Chicken (R42,00).
My steak was beautifully soft and the smoky taste from the oysters certainly added interest. We both agreed that the chips were excellent and although I did not taste the chicken, it did look like something I would enjoy. Despite them being exceptionally busy we didn’t wait inordinately long for anything and the service was very friendly and pleasant.
I couldn't help noticing
that the gentleman at the next table sent both his steak and coffee back, which the management replaced with aplomb. I often wonder, though, if people who send food back and make a fuss at restaurants do so out of a sense of self importance and aggrandizement rather than because the food is poor. I think the manner in which one communicates often says more than the words themselves.
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