With all the bad press that Panama Jacks received about high prices, I initially refused when Gad Kaplan suggested we dine there for the Irascible Vegetarian’s farewell dinner.  It was only after Gad said he’d been there the week before and was surprised at the good value, that I visited. Much like the Mermaid’s Slipper in Plettenberg Bay that got tongues wagging for a R3000 breakfast, Panama Jack’s abalone price (R700/kg) has been blown out of proportion. Let me set the record straight – Panama Jacks is not overpriced even though they have high-cost items on the menu. To my mind, only a cretin will order something known to be expensive without checking the price so I have no sympathy for the poor souls who write into the press saying they were ripped off.

While I can’t really understand its appeal – Panama Jacks, at Quay 500 in the Docks, is a comfortable place with a bar that Hemingway may have enjoyed or Captain Ahab visited after a day's whaling. There is a lap-sized pool where the Crayfish (sold at R360/kg) and other crawlies are kept, which are selected and weighed before being plunged into boiling water or on to the grill for dinner.

I started with a Lobster Bisque (R25), which was full-flavoured and rich, the mini-garlic bread (R10) went down a treat and mopped up the soup deliciously. I ordered the Banjo fish Curry (R59.50) which was made with dorodo, yellowtail and another fish I can’t recall and served in a cast-iron potjie with traditional curry sambals. While the curry was well spiced and aromatic, it wasn’t hot. The Irascible Vegetarian complained that his Cape Salmon didn’t seem like the Salmon he bought abroad, so someone pointed out to him that Cape Salmon (R57.50) was Geelbek and an entirely different fish. The Sole (R66.50) also got rave reviews.
Service was easy and friendly and even though the restaurant was full, Joanne seemed to handle us efficiently. One of the IV's less valuable talents is mimicking accents and he was doing his George Bush rather more loudly than anyone else at our table had hoped. The crayfish and abalone-laden tableful of American tourists to our left seemed more impressed with their seafood catches than his display and looked askance as we left.  

I was invited by SAFM’s Peter-James Smith to breakfast at The Table Bay and almost lost my appetite when I saw that the continental breakfast was R106. What really impressed me, though, was a buffet table dedicated to diabetic and low-fat eating. With as much eye appeal as its full-fat counterpart, I actually enjoyed myself knowing that each unroasted (possibly organic) nut was feeding my body with nutrients and health. Ever keen to get my money’s worth, I noted that a kilo of cashews cost more than the breakfast price, so I munched as many of these as I could. Stewed fruits, natural yoghurts, wheat-free breads and other things favoured by people who wore Indian-print dresses with bells on them in the eighties abounded. I took some sliced fruits from the other buffet table and was impressed by the fruit kebabs with honey and sesame dipping sauce. Grilled peaches also caught my eye. Peter’s scrambled eggs with smoked salmon smelled and looked wonderful, as did the basket of hot toast.

The cappuccino was especially good, served with a rock sugar stick as stirrer. If, like me, you need to temper low-fat eating with injections of grease, the Table Bay provides the perfect platform. Fill up on the wholesome goodies and launch yourself on the smoked salmon and cream cheese thereafter. We had breakfast in the Conservatory but a lighter breakfast (R60) is also served in the lounge area.

Panama Jacks, 2nd Road left after Cape Yacht Club, (021) 447-3992
Table Bay Hotel. V&A Waterfront. (021) 406-5000.