Table Mountain looms large through the picture windows at Relish and the tourist buzz from the adjacent luxury backpackers makes its location noteworthy. More interesting than its predecessor Rustica, Relish is on three levels, with the top bar area offering unrivalled views of the mountain and city.

I was especially fond of Rustica and remembered how instantly desirable it became within seconds of opening. In this respect, Relish seems to be following in its footsteps as the Wednesday Michael Burlak and I dined there it was full and tables were turned more than once throughout the evening.

The restaurant interior is bright, colourful and very pleasing in a contemporary minimalist way but the lounge and bar area on the upper floors felt under furnished. I imagine these will fill out in time unless they’re hoping that hordes of patrons will always sardine-pack these spaces.

I spotted Cleon Romano, probably the city’s premier restaurant consultant, at the adjacent table, but didn’t enquire if he had been involved in Relish or was just a regular patron. Our waitress, Lizelle, wasn’t able to enlighten us further on that topic either, simply saying that the establishment’s owners were British and owned a string of pubs there. I did wonder, as Lizelle chatted about the menu, whether her personal culinary preferences were of interest to patrons. Michael would have ordered the line-fish had she not rejected the idea as a bad one.

Michael raved about his Asparagus and Goats' cheese galette (R38), which I agreed was delicious and beautifully presented as a saucer-sized tart. I ordered the Caesar Salad (R28), which was as it should be.

My choice of main course was a little more difficult. The warthog, apple and sage bangers with roasted garlic mash and red wine jus (R60) sounded fabulous, as did the mixed veg and haloumi kebab with Moroccan cous cous, yoghurt dressing and rocket (R48). One of Lizelle’s recommendations was the Crab panzaroti nero, smoked salmon cream, fresh herbs and parmesan (R65). She described it as rich and, boy, was she right.

Perhaps you saw a piece in the papers some time ago about the outcry from vegetarians and squeamish eaters over the source of food colouring and gelatine. The article was bemoaning the fact that the red colouring used in Smarties came from the Cochineal beetle rather than a synthetic food colouring. The article was tabloid-style claptrap trying to make alarmist news of something that has happened for decades, but for those who want to know what they eat, squid-ink makes the Crab panzeroti black. The first time I had squid-ink coloured food was at Strega Restaurant, which offered a brilliant black spaghetti dish with fish, mussels and roasted tomatoes.

The panzarotti was delicious. I would have preferred smaller crab-pasta cushions that I could easily fit into my mouth without having to cut. As rich as the dish was, I could have had a double-sized portion and still loved it.

Michael had the deep-fried calamari with garlic and lime aioli and tossed rocket (R58), which he enjoyed.

There was no question that I would order any dessert but the Pistachio Crème Brulee (R28). I should have sent it back to the kitchen when I received a baked custard that was flavoured so extremely subtly with Pistachio I would be hard pressed to confirm it contained any at all.

The Frozen fruit skewers, rosemary and rooibos syrup with fruit sorbet (R26) was Michael’s waist-watching option. Attractively presented but difficult to eat with a knife and fork as they slid all over the plate and on to the floor.

Fellow diners may have thought us odd playing Charades at the table – but with the restaurant full the noise ricocheting off the hard surfaces, it was impossible for us to hear each other – perfect only for diners who have nothing to say.

Relish, New Church Street, Cape Town. 021-422-3584

This review was unannounced and paid for in full.