I’ve probably been to The Radisson Hotel at the Waterfront 10 times over the years and, in recent times, have been invited to to their Indian and Malaysian buffets. I’ve always been impressed by the scale on which they entertain and their buffet cannot be faulted for volume or diverse offerings.

The location is also magnificent. On the Sunday lunch in January, Ayden Agras and I were placed so close to the water’s edge that it was easy to dream we were on one of the yachts that sailed by. Bedouin-tented umbrellas with electric heaters keep off the sun or warm the sea breeze. At night, when they have a Seaside BBQ, the tandoori and grills are flush against the pier.

I have seriously started a Weigh-Less eating programme. The previous day, while lunching at Bravo in Mouille Point, it took careful reading of the menu before I ordered the smoked tuna (served with rocket and orange oil) as the best Weigh-Less option. On reflection, there was too much oil with that dish to qualify, which is the perfect segue into this review of Tobago’s buffet. Directly in my line of sight as I walked in was a wide selection of simple salads – three different lettuces, fresh tomato, cucumber wedges, mozzarella balls, feta, olives etc – which meant that I could (and did) fill myself on “free” stuff. I say “free” because “free” isn’t what free once was – nowadays, free means up to 300g of lettuce, cucumber, tomato etc. I’ll wait a few more weeks before reviewing Weigh-Less but for now know that I had my first plate full of formally free goodies.

Natalie Weintroub, who was dining with her charming husband and mother, asked me to mention that she felt the variety of buffet items needed to be updated more regularly.
My next plate still focused on the healthy choices, with the exception of the crostini, which were inexcusably chewy, and the baby potato salad which, after a single mouthful, I decided wasn’t worth the calories. The oriental noodle salad with sesame oil and shrimp was bewitchingly delicious but I restrained myself from having another helping. The abundant smoked salmon was also magnificent. The oysters looked great but I managed not to have any, while the sushi rolls seemed like an unrewarding use of carbohydrate allocations. 

Ayden and I agreed that we could (and should) stop eating after two healthy plates but a third plate with hot goodies was too tempting. The oriental beef with noodles (a little tough but very tasty), steamed vegetables and previously-avoided dolmades pushed my belly to around seven on the one to 10 hunger/satiety scale.

I managed to pass by the sweet and sticky looking chicken, mini vegetable quiches and fish, I guess, in a mustard sauce. The soup of the day looked appetising but very creamy.

Desserts were varied and excessive so I appreciated having slices of fresh fruit as an option. While Ayden tucked into his choco mousse and creme caramel, I virtuously munched on fruit. 

Ronald served us with elegance and efficiency, and despite a full house, plates were quickly cleared and our napkins refolded before we returned to the table. I much prefer efficient service over effusive, which I’ve experienced on previous occasions.

I was annoyed with some of the older guests who seemed to forget their buffet tango steps and almost sashayed their plate into my shirt. However, on balance, and at R145 a head, I would be hard-pressed to recommend a better restaurant where fussy eaters, vegetarians, dieters or gluttons can all have their fill at a stunning location, with the sea at their toes.

Tobago’s at Radisson Cape Town. Granger Bay, Waterfront. 021-441-3000.

This review was unannounced and the bill paid for in full. www.BrianBerkman.com