Abalone Restaurant at the newly opened Lagoon Beach Hotel in Paarden Eiland looks like it could become one of our top restaurants. The décor, particularly the wall containing the abalone-shaped lights, is smashing and the view over the ocean and across to TableMountain is spectacular. The Saturday afternoon we dined there, the area’s ubiquitous wind had stilled making it picture perfect.

I had the SMOKED CROCODILE CEASAR SALAD with Romaine lettuce, crispy battered anchovies and red-onion marmalade (R48) which I found too small and not easily recognizable as a Ceasar Salad but enjoyed eating immensely.

However, when my WEST COAST SEAFOOD SAFFRON BROTH -- described on the menu as crayfish, black mussels, line fish and prawns in a light saffron seafood broth (R95) -- arrived, it looked more like a prop from one of those B-Grade Monster from the Bog movies. As the rest of the table seemed happy with their orders I didn’t want to make a fuss -- until Mandy Neale-May voiced her displeasure.

Second choice

I had intended to forge my way through the “broth”, which was so gelatinous that a fork, rather than a spoon would have suited. I always enjoy eating dishes in aspic (hoof and fish jellies are part of my national cuisine) and I hoped that was the reason for the thick sludge. When I tasted it, however, I realized I couldn’t eat the dish and sent it back for another.

My second choice for a main course was the FRANSCHHOEK SALMON TROUT with basil, shrimp risotto, caper butter sauce and mushy peas (R85). It looked spectacular and was good to eat.

Friendly staff

The staff was very friendly and charming but seemed to me mismatched to the environment. Although the rest of our party (Roger and Mandy Neale-May with baby Lauren, and Dean Mackness) were satisfied with their meals, I got the feeling that, like the people who were eating poolside, we would have preferred to order from more simple fare.

I would have been happier with fresh gorgeous salads, sandwiches and fabulous fresh fish rather than a complex menu which, I judge, the kitchen found too demanding.

We were taken on a tour of the smart and compact rooms as we were leaving and marveled at the brilliant design of the public areas.

Abalone at Lagoon Beach Hotel . Phone(021) 528 2000 for reservations.

This review was unannounced and the bill paid for in full.

www.BrianBerkman.com