RECENTLY I resolved to be grumpy to anyone thinner than me so you can imagine the pleasure of those around me when I arrived at Ben’s on the Beach restaurant on the Strand. Even if the food was less than excellent I would be charming to the end.

Ben prepares meals with diners like himself in mind. I recall him saying he didn’t mind people sending food back half eaten as long as they didn’t leave hungry -- which I can assure you, they don’t.

The last time I mentioned a client in this column, while reviewing the excellent Manolo restaurant, some deranged gadfly called Noseweek magazine to complain that I had undue influence over the media as I was a publicist and freelance writer. My response then, as it will be if it happens again, is that if I have influence over the media it is because I am a skilled professional in my field and not because I review restaurants.

The reason I dredge up this unfortunate matter, is because the meals at Ben’s (there were two) were arranged and paid for by Neale-May and Partners for our mutual client, Tru-Cape. My role was to photograph the participants for an internal newsletter. So, from a choice of three pre-ordained dishes, I selected the Gaspatcho (R22) to start, Lamb Rogan Josh (R72) and skipped dessert (R23). On the second occasion, a week later, I started with the crumbed and deep fried Halomie (R25) (I’ll comment on my diet later) and roasted line fish (R57) as the main. Again, I managed to avoid dessert. As is evident from the proprietor, low-fat is not a culinary focus at Ben’s and my choices, while certainly not Weigh-Less approved, were the best of the bunch.

Glass sculptures

Ben’s on the Beach is relatively new, with him hailing from the Bobby Mcgees in Somerset West and Uncle Ben’s in Stellenbosch previously. The interior is unexpectedly pleasing as it has reds and blues that in my imagination look awful and yet in reality work nicely. Especially appealing is a series of metal, glass and light sculptures that adorn the walls. I wouldn’t be surprised if TuscanyBeach in CampsBay and Ben’s share the same interior designer.

Although it is on Strand’s Beach Road with nothing but the wind separating it from the sea, the restaurant didn’t strike me as being designed to take full advantage of the sea views.

The gaspatcho was delicious and I noticed that many in the group who had not had gaspatcho before were excited by the piquant fieriness in a chilled soup. The flavours were intense and delicious. The Lamb Shank didn’t taste like Rogan Josh to me, but was, nonetheless, beautifully tender and warmly spicy in a rich coconut cream. Although there were two shanks per portion I, feeling sorry for my fellow diner who just wanted the roasted vegetables, enjoyed hers too. I had thought, in the interest of symmetry, I should eat four legs instead of two but the truth is I regretted the gluttony as I had indigestion for the remainder of that day. I wish, rather like a small child, I would learn from my mistakes…

My choice of the Halomie (served on rocket with a sweet chili jam) was again the most healthful as I didn’t expected to find it deep fried. The other option, mussels in cream, garlic and blue cheese, screamed calories although it looked delicious. I haven’t really understood the recent popularity of Halomie here – and when I must eat it I prefer it grilled.

Perfectly cooked

The line fish – served with potato of the day (either savoury mash, potato cream bake or diced sauté potato) was perfectly cooked. A lot of people ask me where they should go for a “nice piece of fish” and now I can happily recommend Ben’s.

I relished the experience of watching people eat Crème Brulee for the first time. Despite my explanation that it was basically just thick custard with a crispy sugar topping, the the pleasure they showed when eating it was rewarding enough. The other dessert, Semifredo (directly translated as half cold), was described by the excellent waitress as a combination of ice cream and white chocolate mousse. That didn’t seem to go down as well as the more accessible ice cream with toffee sauce.

The first group had 12 diners and the second over 30 and while I acknowledge the kitchen didn’t have to contend with a la carte orders from a full restaurant, I am sufficiently impressed with the quality and service to recommend Ben’s on the Beach unreservedly.

Ben’s on the Beach. 142 Beach Road, Strand. 021-853-7977. Open Monday to Saturday from 5.30pm and Sunday from 11.30am.

While this review was announced, the bill was paid for by a third party.