Culinary firsts have become milestones of an increasingly experimental palate. When Brian Stewart phoned to introduce himself as the new owner of Leinster Hall, I immediately remembered eating my first sweetbreads there almost 20 years ago. I had no idea what they were at the time and after enjoying them it seemed silly to be squeamish about them being veal glands.

Although I’m a great fan of David Higgs, I never ate there when he ran it and even though I’d toured the place when The Cape Town Club took up residence upstairs after moving from its historic home in Queen Victoria Street, it took Brian Stewart’s call to get me back.

We lunched on the terrace overlooking the courtyard and fountain. It’s hard to believe such a place exists just behind the MountNelsonHotel because it feels as if it belongs in another era – perhaps a scaled down Tara or Jamaican general’s home. The lunch menu, enjoyed by club members and their guests, is updated boarding school grub which caters to club members’ pedestrian tastes.  Although I enjoyed the steak and kidney pie it is at night that Leinster Hall comes into its own.

Grand home

The Saturday night Martin Myers and I dined there we were one of only three tables. We had drinks in the sitting room with Sir De Villiers Graaff staring down from above the fireplace. It’s a comfortable place in which to lounge and smoke before or after dinner, and feels more like someone’s grand home than a restaurant. Service was particularly good but that may have been because we had the place to ourselves.

Chef Steven comes from Wales and he worked under David Higgs before running the kitchen on his own. The menu is modern and pleasantly affordable for what you get. I loved my Roast Onion Tarte Tatin and Marinated Crayfish Salad dressed with Papaya and Coriander (R85). Martin had the Consommé of Chicken, Asparagus and Oyster Mushrooms finished with a Simonzola and Rocket Ravioli. (R45). I appreciated the fact that the Consommé was brought in a jug so I could serve myself. Martin raved about it but I noted it seemed cloudy rather than the clarified amber liquid I had expected.

The Twenty Four Hour Pork Belly with Pineapple and Chili Sorbet (R45) also seemed appealing.

Abstemious

Martin ordered the Duo of Lamb with Raison, Almond and Whiskey Couscous accompanied by a Roast Tomato and Ginger Sauce (R95), which looked delicious and plentiful with two meat cuts. I had the more abstemious Linefish with Steamed Tiger Prawn, Potato Rosti, Asparagus and Tomato Trilogy (R75). We finished the meal with coffee (R10).

The setting at Leinster Hall is formal with imposing portraits and lavish chandeliers. Madiba, De Klerk, Tutu and others stare down from the walls and tables are set with floor length napery and crowned with quality glass wear. Although the dining room is intimate, it would be possible to whisper sweet nothings into your partner’s ear or have a high-level business meeting. We did have a fabulous evening and Leinster Hall is the kind of restaurant that I’d like to go back to for that six-hour dinner over as many bottles of wine.

Leinster Hall, 7 Weltevreden Street, Gardens. 021-424-1836.

This review was unannounced and the bill paid for.