Bring the family for good value buffet under the oaks.

Sunday lunch at Catharina’s can be so languid you’ll stay until sunset.

The story goes that Catharina was an independently minded woman who came to the Cape an eon ago. Without a husband and against the social mores set up farm at what today is Steenberg.

I can feel her feisty spirit as I sit under the giant oaks, the gentle sun strengthened by reflection off the white-washed walls. Shrill-voiced children dart around the base player while others play on the manicured lawns. Not Lauren of course. She is an angel. Either that or quick-limbed mum Mandy curtails her enthusiasm.
Steenberg on a Sunday is one of the few elegant places that copes well with children. The jazz trio, a set of old-timers, is probably used to energetic offspring as they never missed a beat while the serving staff add to the relaxed comfort by their unlimited patience and ready supply of high chairs.

Roger and I had it easy. We took the trip to the buffet in turns returning to the table with self-concocted platters. First round I brought Mediterranean mezzes - hummus, taramasalata, olive tapenade, aubergine pate, pepper dew pate, caprese salad (tomato, buffalo mozzarella and basil), avocado salsa, marinated mushrooms and cous cous salad. Lauren had made friends with another two-year old at the adjacent table which meant that Mandy and the newcomer’s mum shared the reining-in duties. Eating tarama with a crisp cos lettuce leaf in a light summery breeze is fabulous.

Roger’s trip to the buffet was as successful. He brought smoked salmon, shrimp with mayo, salmon and kingklip terrine, Thai-style calamari, Mussels vinaigrette and kingklip with a Malay crust. A German table on one side and an American on the other give the day a wonderfully international feel while our Proudly South African table joined in partisan spirit with the other one which featured a celebrity of sorts – we all recognized her handsome face and hair combed into a flick like those skateboard arcs. Mandy thought she was the famous heart surgeon while I recognized her from Egoli.

I was feeling pleased with myself. How clever it was of Catharina to brave the high seas and come to the Cape. How clever it was of me too not to have left the country when so many of my friends and family did which meant that I was sitting under sun-soaked, jazz infused oaks while they were cleaning up after their children in colder climes.

I had already eaten sufficient but a meat course of cold cuts beckoned before the hot buffet.

Although the place was very busy I didn’t feel as if I were queuing as the buffet is displayed over two rooms with the carvery at the centre and antipasti on either end.

Meat samoosas, venison terrine, duck and dried fruit terrine and a selection of cold meats was Mandy’s offering to the table. With the live music and delicious bottles of Graham Beck (as the new owners of Steenberg we decided to quaff their wines) life was good.

Often in buffets the focus is on quantity at the expense of quality. At Catharina’s I found each dish I tasted to be well made which is an accolade to executive chef Garth Almazan who wasn’t on duty the day we dined and yet nothing in the food, or experience as a whole, indicated his lack of attention.

I was the least impressed by the carvery selection which I found too pedestrian. I think they missed an opportunity to offer some twists on the usual items. Roast leg of lamb, sirloin, pork neck (I would have preferred a honeyed gammon), roast potatoes and Yorkshire pud. The Chicken curry was especially good. Grilled Mediterranean vegetables and broccoli and cauliflower cheese completed a traditional Sunday roast selection.

I was too full to enjoy the desserts but aside from the traditional dishes like Malva pudding, Tiramisu, Trifle, Pecan nut pie and chocolate cake, I was impressed with the offering of Amarula Crème brulee and Pavlova. Choco brownies and mousse completed the chocolate fix while the more abstemious amongst us enjoyed the fresh fruit platter and selection of cheeses. R160 per person.

Catharina’s at Steenberg Hotel & Spa. Steenberg Estate, Tokai. 021-713-2222.