SOME restaurateurs have that special gift of attracting the right people. I remember thinking that years ago when I first dined at Mano’s in Green Point. Something other than conventional publicity is at work here, as people mentioned Mano’s new restaurant at Black River Office Park before I ever read about it.
The same thing is happening with The Castle Hotel. The formally crummy and run-down off sales spot next to Beinkinstadt Jewish books in Zonnebloem.

When I arrived for lunch with Craig Dummett, a PR guy who arranged fabulous accommodation for me at SLH properties in New York, Bradley Marsden and Adam Marcus were deep in conversation over, I imagine some new property deal. When I bumped Bradley at Giovanni’s recently he said they were now in business together which I’m sure has the property industry agog.

Media moguls Marc Blachowitz and Nic Wides of Touchline Media arrived while Craig and I were enjoying our food. Our waiter said that there were seven rooms above the restaurant which, in time, would be available as accommodation, but for now, The Castle Hotel was a dining spot (and a drinking hole at the off-sales on the ground floor) which seemed as dodgy as it always did.

Although I never went there, when people spoke about South American-inspired Parilla restaurant, they talked about the slanted grill that encouraged the fat to drip off the meat during grilling, which is what they seem to have here.

I opted for the Portuguese Sirloin (R70) with the Trinchado sauce of red wine, chili and garlic as apposed to the creamy mustard offering with a small portion of roasted veg instead of chips or rice. I also declined the egg that came with it. This was an abstemious lunch. Craig had the Fish of the Day (R65) which was kabeljou after grilling the waitress on its exact preparation. He seemed very happy with it as I was with my steak.

We shared an excellent Greek salad (R35) which was chunky and fresh. We were intrigued enough by the Peasant Greek salad which cost five bucks more to ask why. “No lettuce”, the waitress said but more other goodies chopped more finely. Who would have thought?

There were calls of appreciation from the media table – the peri-peri baby chicken (R70) had impressed the Touchline boys. Had Craig been a worse influence I would have tried the peri-peri chicken livers (R30) or beer battered fish (R42) but I’m very grateful he wasn’t as nowadays I have to enlist the help of fellow diners to dissuade me from ruining my healthy eating.

The interior at The Castle, like at Mano’s elsewhere, is sparse. The kitchen is open so you can spy on your steak and there is an open hand-washing station in one of those deep farm-style porcelain basins where you could wash a lamb. The stairs leading to the first floor restaurant are shiny black tiles which, I imagine with a few bottles of Mateus Rose (R89) under the belt could be difficult to negotiate. They probably help to keep out the boozers who frequent the corner.

Other than deco (possibly original) light fittings and a large-scale black and white images used as wall paper, the place, like the food is simple. I’m happy to recommend you go there especially if you need to talk business in a venue that won’t bamboozle you with 50 menu choices or highfalutin descriptions. If you prefer fireworks I suggest you irritate one of the locals.

The Castle Hotel, Corner Canterbury and Constitution Streets, Cape Town. 021-461-6306. Open Monday to Saturday for lunch and dinner.