Old fashioned welcome at Theo’s still warm after 25 years

It was one of those perfect Sea Point evenings – the sun just down while the seaweed scent scintillated the nose hairs with ozone bubbles. Looking beyond the yawning hole in the paving – the sea sound amplified as we carefully walked by to avoid the chasm. We were walking with many others – dodging a pram here and a zimmer-frame there. Craig Levinthal and I hemmed and hawed about where to eat – Caffe Neo, our first option was closed for dinner and the choice rested between Bravo and Theo’s.

I hinted we may get a special welcome at Theo’s and we cut through the uneven grass – hoping for similar success in dodging obstacles, this time, low-lying and canine in origin.

Anton, who I first met at The Radisson SAS and recently again saw at the gym, was near the door – “Mr Berkman”, he bellowed, obsequious and sycophantic in equal measure. In a grand, generous way, he offered us a bottle on the house and made the kind of fuss I hoped he would. I wasn’t a bit surprised – I’d seen him fawn at the Radisson where it irritated me but here it felt that he’d learned the hospitality craft from an aged maitre’d whose bowing and stooping had bent his back into a question mark. Here it felt right.

I’d also seen Theo many times at the gym or while promenading along the seafront – and was flattered that he came to greet us. I don’t think he knew who I was as he gave the same warm attention to the American table to our left and the English one to our right. He recognized Craig and they chatted about his recently opened restaurant in Willowbrook and the franchise operations in Camps Bay, Constantia and Joberg. “25 years”, he kept saying, was how long he’d been in the business. A long time, indeed and it shows – “60% service” he says, “and 40% food”, is his recipe for success. Anton was wearing a black latex apron when he came to report what was on the butcher’s block – “meat so tender I can put my finger through it” he said while my mind reeled. Craig and I were charmed by Tanya who was serving us – she cooed about Anton’s choice of Eikendal chardonnay and its gold medal and told us about the tasting she did at the farm adding that “as girls don’t spit she had a grand time.” It was my first taste of the wine and it was delicious – smoky and rich enough to chew.

Considering my Weighless meeting the next morning, I opted for the swordfish (R85) – which Tanya correctly suggested was lower in fat than the other offerings. The Cajun spice was well balanced but the firm flesh would have benefited from a sauce. The accompanying vegetables were fine – creamed spinach and mixed veg – broccoli, cabbage etc, the mushrooms – boiled and then basted on the grill (R18) were gooey and delicious. Craig had the Kingklip (R79) also selecting the Cajun against the lemon and butter offering which was served with a portion of calamari tubes (tender but not tasty), to compensate for the small size of the fish. I was tempted but not convinced by the peppermint crisp dessert.

I spied Shai from Liquid Chefs at a table while leaving and noted, happily, the high number of black businessmen – something I don’t often see in Sea Point restaurants. Theo’s is justifiably popular.

Walking back to my flat - mist floating over the sea like a cappuccino foam – I felt like I’d been caught in some Hitchcockian time warp – first encountering school colleagues Alex Agulnik and Ronnie Mazor whom I’d seen probably once in 20 years and, perhaps even more freakily just 50 paces later, Tamara Schloshberg calling out “Peanuts or Peaches” on the top of her voice to her parents across the road. It was like I was back at Herzlia but now, instead of being an awkward geek, it was I being fawned over.

Theo’s Beach Road, Mouille Point. Tel: 021-439-3494.