Temple of Mish
Many of the city’s gentlemen folk were surprised when restaurateur Jacques
Botha – renowned for his efforts at The Wild Fig, … And Lemon and Poplars
eateries, married. The eponymous Mish Cuisine has been the topic of dinner-party
talk for sometime while men, probably dejected, try to understand her allure.
Ordinarily, none of this information would be relevant to a restaurant review
– after all, the private lives of chefs and restaurateurs should remain such –
except in this case as Mish Cuisine feels like a temple in her honour – if the
name weren’t enough there is a image of her face in mosaic on the outside of the
building.
Right in the wrong part of town
Mish Cuisine is situated in that strange part of Bree Street where seedy
seamen’s nightclubs have made way for cartyre shops – from rubber to rubber, so
to speak. Directly opposite Mish is the Mustard Seed Deli while across the way,
adjacent where Catacombs, Rita’s and Swing nightclubs once drew patrons under
the city streets, is Frieda’s – the award-winning boere-chic coffee shop. In the
80’s this part of town was very desirable and now with Mish on the block it
seems it may again be so.
Exotic ideas
The double-storey venue is vast and decorated in artic white with the
exception of avocado green. It is an elegant space but felt cold the night we
dined there with only a few other tables around. I especially like the artful
arrangement of dinnerware above the fireplace. It may be that the empty canvass
interior is designed to make Mish and the food center stage. She is a Birgette
Nielsen-styled blonde and the night we – Adrian Di Lollo, John Hopkins and John
French visited, had her hair slicked back. She was wearing a red dress that
appeared to show off the bits in their correct places – although female anatomy
is a weak point, our table spent much of the evening discussing it.
Jacques recommended the Steak Tartar (R38), the recipe for which he’d
received from a French chef, to start which was prettily served with toast
squares around it like a sunflower. I would have preferred it served in the more
traditional way with the various ingredients placed around the mince for me to
mix myself. It was tasty enough but I also missed having chips with it and
additional mustard and mayo. I will visit Mish again just to eat the Artichoke,
Aubergine, Asparagus and Onion Bulbs (R58) again. So simple, flavoured with
herbs and lemon rind but divine to eat.
Nostalgia
Others at the table raved about the crispy and soft textures in their starter
of the crispy salmon skins served with smoked salmon, caviar and watercress and
hazel nut oil on blinis (R45). One of the portions of greek lamb in phyllo (R72)
caused concern as the pastry wasn’t properly cooked through. When this was drawn
to Jacques’ attention he was appropriately apologetic and offered something
else. As we left he apologized again which I really appreciated – he seemed
genuinely interested that we should have had a good time in his company.
Only two of us had desserts – and both the Sago pudding with Cinnamon Syrup
(R36) which is dedicated to Mish. On reflection it was nostalgia that made me
order it – because I didn’t really enjoy eating it and found the syrup too
sweet.
I recognized liquidator Muller Terreblanche at one of the tables and Mr Mac –
whose first name I was never able to ascertain from that hair company on Green
Market Square. I remember interviewing him eons ago and wishing that one day I
could take over his amazing art deco office.
Other menu items that caught my attention included the Ribbolita (very thick
Italian tomato and vegetable soup (R28)). Fois gras with marinated Fresh Oysters
(R225) and onion and goats cheese tart (R36).
Interesting sounding mains included The Crispy Roasted Duck with Peach and
Peanut Brittle (R74) as did the Bell Peppers filled with Courgettes, Roasted
Pumpkin Seeds, Leaks and Pasta Rive (R58).
Grilled items include the usual suspects as well as Ostrich and Kudu steaks
with onion marmalade and port-wine sauce (R94).
Mish Cuisine, 18 Bree Street, Cape Town. 021-418-4196.
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