An (un)hidden gem

I MAY be guilty of judging other restaurants at face value too. If it weren’t for Gordon Radowsky’s view that it was the “Best Chinese food in Cape Town” and Peter Hayes suggestion that we dine there, I would never have eaten there. Sometimes it is the things that are right under our noses that we ignore – as I must have walked past Hesheng in Main Road, Sea Point more times that I can remember.

We owe a debt of gratitude to Gordon Radowsky. If he weren’t there, the very night that Peter and I visited, we may have ordered adventurously, but entirely from the wrong menu.
 

The real thing

If dishes like Chop Suey, Chow mein or sweet ‘n sour pork served with spring rolls and bowties is your idea of Chinese cuisine, this spot isn’t for you. Nor, may I add, is it if plastic tablecloths and strip florescent lighting will prevent you from visiting. The right menu isn’t even available in English and the staffer’s command of our language is limited, at best. I recommend throwing caution to the wind and just pointing wildly at the menu items on the wall and hoping for the best. Some dishes may be beyond acceptable to you – like cold pork belly is to me, while others will make you as excited as a six-year old kid with birthday candles to extinguish. Think of it as culinary roulette – place your bets. Much like a garage poker school where losing a hand, now and then, won’t break the bank - neither will it do so here.

I will not say that the food here is cheap. But that it is value for money will be undisputed. A hotpot, for example, that could feed four, costs R45. Appetisers are R15 while rice is R5 per bowl.
 

When in Rome…

Haiku habitués will now know that Asian-style food comes when it’s ready – and that Western views of starters, mains and deserts don’t apply to Chinese eating. If you’re not content with sharing, eating here may be unpleasant.

Tea is the first thing to the table. It is an amazing digestive and makes cool drinks (and even wine) superfluous. A selection of cold dishes should be next – I recommend the seaweed salad (shredded with sesame oil), a potato salad that would qualify as deconstructionalist at best. It is shredded uncooked potato in a chili oil – delicious beyond reason. Try the celery and peanut salad that challenges your agility with the chopsticks. Each of these is R15 and I recommend one per person dining. Next come the pancakes – the spring onion (R10) is a cooked flat bread while the rolled cake – we had the egg (R15) is sweet and savory with each bite.

Soups and dumplings come next. We had the beef flank hotpot (R45) and the pork and prawn mince fried dumpling. (R25). Please be warned. The gossamer thin wrapping is deceptive. The contents will be exceptionally hot and full of liquid which will burn your mouth and face and ruin your shirt as it pours down your front.
 

Can’t get to China?

I’ve enjoyed the summer-fish hotpot (R45) previously – although, and Pops, this one’s for you, eating the floating fish eye did require some fortitude, the Spicy chicken (R35) is acceptable but not special and the sizzling beef can be tough when it cools. The bean-cake with crushed peanuts and toasted sesames is the perfect finisher.

When I’ve dined there, five times in as many weeks, I’ve been among the only Westerners. I guess that Chinese people eat here instead of cooking at home.
My review comes with this caveat: don’t expect exquisite cuisine like you’ll find at Haiku, Tong Lok and Mr Chan, among others. Expect an authentic Chinese meal that will be delicious, affordable and memorable. Bring your own booze (and glasses) if you want anything other than tumblers.

Hesheng Chinese Restaurant & Take Away. 70 Main Road, Sea Point. (Opposite the KFC in the Adelphi centre). 021-434-4214. Open Monday to Sunday from 11:00 to 23:00 except for Thursday from 17h00.