If you can’t take the heat…

If it weren’t for David Higgs, then commis chef at Bill Stafford’s Cookery School, 1993 would have been even more awful. While I had excelled myself at the theory of cuisine, I was not faring well with its practice. One particularly challenging task required a chicken cut into 12 neat parts. David, realizing my utter ineptness, offered me extra lessons and, 20 chickens later I was (and still am) able to cut through a chicken like Zoro. Not that it helped me pass the exam as, after burning myself on the baked, lavender honey thingy I was making and destroying my fellow trainee’s choux paste-swan while setting it on fire, I collapsed into hysterical weeping. I may have toughed up since then but my respect for what chefs accomplish under the pressure of a busy kitchen remains, as does my gratitude to David.
 

Fine dining at Wheatfields at Meerendal

When Conde Nast House & Garden asked me to interview David and his culinary partner Wade van der Merve at Meerendal for their December issue, I was pleased for the opportunity to pay back David’s kindness 12 years earlier. Because of this, I had some reservations when dining at Wheatfields – Meerendal’s fine-dining offering with this review in mind, about what I’d say if the experience was a poor one. I decided that David and Wade would be subject to the same rigors as every other fine dining establishment and be reviewed the same way.

Our party of eight on Saturday afternoon was the only table in the newly opened restaurant. We would have been nine but Basil Rubin had taken ill that morning and we had to dine without him. The Rubin’s and I were joined by Pnina Fenster and her partner Enver. We sipped Villiera Brut (R130) in the stylish, deep leather couches in the smoking room before lunch and Meerendal’s single vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (only available at Wheatfields) (R120) with our starters.
I had the roasted peppers with goat’s cheese (R38) to start which was very delicious but too small for my appetite while there was praise for the Gnocchi and Procini mushrooms (R42) and Smoked Duck broth (R42).
 

Quality over quantity

I had the pork belly (R85) as a main with smoked potato and apple mash – which is among the most delicious things I’ve eaten. Again, I would have preferred a larger portion – not withstanding that the pork, slow-cooked in duck fat was probably the most calorific thing on the menu. The presentation of every dish was inspired – mine had a long julienne of vegetables shaped into an “S” that looked beautiful. Jason had the lamb chops which looked and smelt divine and, despite his own admission (not to mention his mother and grandmother’s) as a fussy eater, left a spotless plate. The only complaint that I heard was the beef fillet (ordered medium rare) (R95) was over cooked and a little tough.
 

Smooth and delicious

After pigging out, so to speak, on my main course I ordered the fruit plate (R38) for dessert. Again beautifully presented fanned fruits with saffron syrup. I tasted some of Aileen’s gorgonzola dessert (R38) which was sublime and some of Janice’s Brulee – done differently served in a dark chocolate cone with a sugar disc topping and chocolate wedge at its centre. (R38).
I asked David to recommend a red for our mains and his suggestion of Meerendal’s 1989 Shiraz at R250 was smooth and delicious but too costly – at that price I would rather have selected a different wine.

Wheatfields is in the Manor House at Meerendal which has been beautifully refurbished in a contemporary style. Service was elegant and informed. Other than wishing for slightly larger portions I can recommend it unreservedly.

Wheatfields, Meerendal, Visserhok Road, Durbanville. 021-975-1655.