A grand check-in for the Blue Train

SPECIAL guests at the Ritz Carlton Hotel in Kuala Lumpur have their initials embroidered on the pillow slips. I remember the feeling of luxury resting my weary head on BB each night I stayed there. Imagine the thrill then of alighting The Blue Train at Cape Town Station and seeing my initials at every possible opportunity. There were B’s engraved on the windows and glasses in the dining car; B’s woven into the carpet and etched into the metal work; B’s embroidered all over the crisp white duvet set and pillow cases and the fluffy towels; B’s printed on the stationery, coasters and cocktail napkins. I was in ego heaven.

Checking in at the purpose-built Blue Train lounge near Platform 24 at Cape Town station was like arriving at a Grand Hotel in a crumbling neighbourhood. Looking past the red carpet, potted palms, shiny brass luggage trolleys to the bustle of the station, is little like superimposing Clifton on Cross Roads - at once startling and intriguing.
 

Luxuxry awaits

The size of the lounge gives an indication of both the luxury that awaits and the number of people the train can carry - 74 or 82 guests depending on the train’s configuration. One set, currently being restored after a recent crash and looting, has an observation car and conference car while both have beautifully appointed Club cars – for smoking and game playing and plush Lounge cars with bar.

Sitting in deep chairs and couches – perhaps more suited to a corporate lobby than a check-in lounge, Hennie, the F&B manager, comes to introduce himself and check any dining proclivities. Refreshments are offered and we’re alerted to a table laden with sweets and savories.

More notable than any other aspect of The Blue Train experience is the food – both in quality and quantity and if your capacity allows, it could be a non-stop eat and drink fest. With the exception of caviar and French Champagne, food and drink onboard is included in the price.
 

A fine lunch

At lunch, shortly after leaving Cape Town at 11am, we had a bottle of Graham Beck Brut as a starter, moved to Meerlust 2003 Chardonnay with the Game Pate, perhaps more quickly than usual as we were neither driving nor paying, while with our karoo lamb chops, served on waterblometjie mash with butter-tossed summer vegetables we had a bottle of Meerlust Rubicon 1993. Cheese came next as did the magnificent Vin de Constance. Dessert was a baked pear.

My head was swimming in expensive booze. Fortunately the carriage width was narrow enough for me to bounce from shoulder to shoulder as I tried to walk as soberly as possible to the suite. The magical Mosa – our 30-something Butlerette had, while we were dining, converted our walnut-paneled lounge suite into a double bed with the most glorious white percale linen. Even after a restorative nap my lunch excesses prevented me from enjoying High Tea.
 

After-lunch stroll

Had I, perhaps, been in a better mood (read less hung-over) the afternoon excursion around the historic Matjiesfontein would have been less excruciating. I’d recommend folks who exceed at lunch to rather do their own wandering around the town than attend the planned tour and associated buffoonery.
 

High cuisine at low speed

Unlike the famous Eastern & Orient Express journey, which I enjoyed from Kuala Lumpur to Bangkok, The Blue Train feels motionless as it glides with just a hint of rocking. The difference in experience is the engine and the crawling 60k/hour at which it travels during the day.

The Blue Train is costly. You’ll each be paying around R350 an hour that you are there but considering it is a special-occasion experience and compares in price to a week’s stay on an Island, it is a good choice for honeymooners or executives looking for a short, but very relaxing break.

Aside from the excursion at Matjiesfontein, which I could have done without, the 30 hours are spent on board. We opted for a double bed and bath configuration instead of twin beds and a shower and as the train wasn’t very busy on our visit, we were offered another suite to use as a study. Without exception the service on board was outstanding.
 

Proudly world class

There was a term used in the Army to describe the type of conscript who paid extra attention to the crease lines of his shirt, or seemed to want to volunteer ahead of others. He would be described or derided as being Paraat – that odd combination of feeling proud and bullish – haughty but without the attitude. This was how I felt about The Blue Train: In its 60th anniversary I experienced it as world-class as the Eastern & Orient Express with levels of luxury and service that rivaled some of the best in five-star hotels here and abroad. To hear the mostly American guests on board coo and ahh about our beautiful landscape – the stretch from the Cape to The Karoo the most arresting – and witness a largely black crew perform silver service with the dignity and aplomb of ladies and gentlemen serving ladies and gentlemen left me Paraat.

The Blue Train is described as a Window to the Soul of South Africa. I recommend it to locals as a travel choice before taking a trip abroad. It may also unseat any fears about continuing to make South Africa your home.

 www.BlueTrain.co.za