BAKED ALASKA is one of those retro dishes foodies get dewy-eyed about. The average cook has too much fear to combine ice-cream, sponge, meringue and heat in the same dish to try it and most restaurants would rather apply the required effort to a more trendy offering.
This is all a great pity for folk who love to eat it, unless they’re cruising on board Holland America’s MS Ryndam through the icy waters of Alaska - possibly the only place in the universe where it is on the menu every night.
Newcomers should expect an insulating layer of sponge cake topped with a large slab of vanilla ice-cream which is then enclosed in meringue. So far, it’s a pretty easy dish to make. At this stage is goes back into the freezer until you’re ready to bake it.
The hot oven quickly cooks the meringue creating a protective blanket which retards the melting ice cream. A final flourish before serving is dousing it in flaming liqueur (berry works very well) at the table. Legend has it the dish was created to celebrate America’s purchase of Alaska from the Russians.
I had Baked Alaska about five times while on board our seven-day Vancouver to Alaska roundtrip. Although it was mostly served with a twist - cherries one day, blackberries the next - for our farewell dinner we requested instead of individually served Baked Alaska desserts that the chef make a large one for the table so we could all enjoy the thrill of flambé - also something unfortunately no longer in fashion. The contrast of textures and temperatures is delightful.
While on deck cruising in Glacier Bay, we enjoyed Dutch pea soup - thick and hearty with chunks of smoked pork which went part way to warming us as we sailed up to 370 meters from the Johns Hopkins Glacier. Despite being an 11-storey vessel, we were dwarfed by the grey topped, blue veined ice.
Although still early in the morning, the chill from the surroundings meant the coffee and hot-chocolate trolley was in high demand where folk were fortifying themselves with slugs of liqueur. Although it was eight degrees, I found the coat, hat, scarf and gloves kept me warm while walking on deck and tartan blankets on the deck chairs came into their own while lounging. As if to prove a point, guests from colder climes strutted the decks in shorts!
Our last night on board included a “ballet” by the kitchen and waiting staff as they ceremoniously (read irritatingly) draped our napkins across our impatient laps. There may be a place for food theatre but I, generally speaking, prefer food and theatre served separately. We started with a mushroom mousse served with asparagus followed by the elaborately tossed “show salad spectacular” greens, peppers, mushrooms, spring onion and baby tomatoes in a delicious honey and mustard dressing. The Lobster Bisque was rich and creamy with a heady Cognac burst but the Taglitelle with roasted chicken and Portobello mushrooms reminded me next time I cruise to rather eat at the Pinnacle Grill and pay the $10 lunch/$20 dinner supplement.
I found the food to be generous but uninteresting despite the obvious hard work and skill on behalf of executive chef Rudi and his teams. I’m sure many other diners enjoyed it enormously but for those who live to eat, The Pinnacle Grill where each dish is prepared as it is ordered, is a better option.
No prizes for guessing what we had for dessert.
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